In June this year the British team of Paul Guest, Leon Winchester, Martin Moran and Rob Jarvis along with Indian Liaison Officer Ludar Singh made the first ascent of the striking 'Changuch' (6322m) in the Kumaon Himalaya, Northern India. 

The ascent included a long night of climbing and route finding up a complicated face with poor snow conditions.  The reward for gaining the 5850m col was several hours chipping ice to make an 'exiguous' ledge for the bivvi tents.  After a rest day the whole team, led by Guides Moran and Jarvis, set off at 12.30am along an exposed snow ridge which merged into an icy face. This presented a series of pitches up to 60° and lead to the fine short summit ridge and excellent tiny summit, reached at 9am. 

The team's initial objective was the beautiful, objectively safe and huge South Ridge of Nanda Devi East but this proved to be a bit of a handful and Moran's local knowledge meant the attention could be turned to this fine unclimbed peak near Base Camp. 

Nearby 'Nanda Lapak' (5782m) provided a fine warm-up climb on arrival at Base Camp and on the way out the team made a rare crossing of 'Trails Pass' to access the lovely upper Pindari Valley.  This provided a fine trek out down to the valley treats of beds, beer and some excellent curry!

VIDEO: The 2009 British / Indian Nanda Devi East & Changuch Expedition

High Mountain Guides is a friendly, dynamic and professional Mountain Guiding company run by Rob Jarvis, International Mountain Guide (IFMGA). They provide Mountain Guiding and training in the Alps and UK and specialise in tailor made mountaineering, climbing and skiing experiences for small groups and individuals.

You can browse their inspiring and information packed website at: www.highmountainguides.com