UKC

1 year, 1000 boulders: An Interview with one of UKC's most active climbers

© Pete Gunn

For most climbers, finishing the year with a tally of 105 trad routes (up to E6), 29 sport routes up to 7b, and 11 winter routes up to IV, across 74 different crags (27 of which were new), would make for a stellar year.

Add in a 200.2 mile cycle and a George Fisher Tea Round, and it would make an impressive year even moreso. 

But it was Pete's - frankly ridiculous - 2024 bouldering tally that really caught our eye.

1,016 boulders, from f2 to 7C, in a single year.

We got in touch with Pete to ask how it all came about, what it is about mileage that he loves, and what the highlights have been.


Did you set out to climb 1000 boulder problems at the beginning of the year. I'm assuming that climbing that many problems requires a pretty concerted approach?!

Haha, no! I didn't notice how close to 1000 I was until a few weeks ago! I saw in the log books I was on 948 at the start of December and so made an effort to do it this year. Back in 2012 I was also close with 984, if I had realised I would have ticked the 1000 back then!

I am a self-confessed compulsive ticker of climbs! Enjoying doing as much as I can, especially at new crags. I find it a great way to get to know a crag and its quirks. 

Cullen de Chien, 6A highball at Primrose Bay, Moray Coast  © Pete Gunn
Cullen de Chien, 6A highball at Primrose Bay, Moray Coast
© Pete Gunn

There's always an unknown hidden gem lurking in there. Each year I do a 'new crag' list and this year me and my partner have visited 27 new crags out of a total of 73 visited. I've climbed at over 791 different crags since I started back at college in 1998, so hopefully this too can reach 1000 in the future.

When it comes to grades, how do you balance the desire to climb some harder, more time consuming problems with rattling through a whole load of easier ones?

I've never really been a 'projector' of hard problems, I'm not certain I even like bouldering (I'm sure I must be joking?)! Usually when I visit a crag I'll have a hard problem in mind to try, but I'm happy to climb the easier problems and enjoy the location.

Saying that, I've recently been projecting a few harder problems. I am very close to getting Dan's Awooga (f7C) at Simonside, which hopefully will go soon or in the spring now the weather has turned. It's definitely not my style though, more suited to the young and springy, with a 'Cypher kick' type dyno to get to the high hold.

Even though I will be pleased to get it, it does feel strange to go all the way up there and only try one thing. For trad routes I find this different, as some days you may only do one or two routes, but a good trad route nourishes the soul, more so than a boulder problem in my opinion.

You're obviously someone who likes mileage, but what is it about mileage that you like?

I think it must come down to flow and movement on rock, and lots of it. I get bored if I'm only trying one problem, and so after a while I'll go off and explore what else there is. I must have ants in my pants.

You haven't stuck to the honeypots to achieve this, visiting some highly esoteric and remote crags along the way. What have been your highlights on that front?

Living in Carlisle there's a good scope of different areas and rock types within a 100 mile radius. I love going to new crags, especially the less frequented and more esoteric crags. I don't think I've ever been to a sh*t crag, although I'm sure a lot of people will disagree with that!

One that comes to mind recently is Hull Pot, an open pothole near Pen-y-ghent in Yorkshire. It's got everything down there, trad, sport, bouldering, caving and even winter and ice climbing (the waterfall that flows in has been climbed a few times in winter!).

Icefall Route - Hull Pot  © innes
© innes, Feb 2021

It's fun to get into as you have to squeeze down a slot to get into a big open pothole. Being 20m deep you have to lower in all your pads and bags with bemused walkers looking on! What's more astonishing is that it can and does fill up to the brim in very wet winters. If you got there at exactly the right time I'm sure there would be some fine DWS on the sport/trad lines. Just be careful not to get sucked down into the sump… maybe not then! haha.

Hull Pot - hard to find the DWS sweet-spot  © Pete Gunn
Hull Pot - hard to find the DWS sweet-spot
© Pete Gunn

What other highlights have there been, both in terms of venues, boulder problems and the people you've climbed with?

A particular problem that pops to mind is the standout line at High Houselop Quarry, with the highball arête of Hard Work (f7A). When you first look up at the problem, it's very imposing as it's a 7m undercut arête. You traverse in from the side, and have to commit to the cutloose before wrapping your thighs around the cheese block arête and blasting up to the top. The old quarry looks dreadful with loose blocks and shale everywhere but this arête is fantastic.

Superb highball arete, esoterica at it's best!  © Petegunn
Superb highball arete, esoterica at it's best!
© Petegunn, Jul 2023

More local to home there is the sandiest, crumbliest rock I have ever climbed on! - The Gelt Quarry. Here there is another fine arête with some unique moves and holds that I have never before come across. However there's no gear, so I'm unsure yet if I will solo it, as its 10m high. Luckily my partner likes going to all these excellent/esoteric places with me, so there's no need to deceive my other friends into going to these venues.

It's been good to get out with some of the keen youngsters from the climbing wall the last few years. It's great seeing them progress and enjoying the outdoors. I do get a bit jealous of their young knees and backs, but being able to share my enthusiasm and knowledge feels good.

In years gone by you've put up some absolutely incredible climbs, both in terms of routes (Scallop (E7 6b) at Armathwaite) and boulder problems (The Secret Garden (f7A) at Joppety How). What's it like to see these repeated and go on to become classics?

I was really proud that Greg used the 'Secret Garden' on the front cover of Lake District Bouldering (2019). Even more so, it featured on a special edition Beer from Wander Beyond Brewing! A friend said 'That's it, you can relax now…You've accomplished everything!' Which does put into words how amazing it is to have one of your climbs on a beer! How many people can say that!

I always love hearing people's stories or seeing photos of these climbs. 'Scallop' is quite a rarity, as it's one of only a few sandstone slab climbs which doesn't actually have any real holds on it, if your feet pop there's nothing to hold onto and you will ride the slab to the bottom. I'm not sure if I will ever do them both again though, as they are getting harder and higher everytime I visit them! 

Lake District Bouldering cover photo
© Greg Chapman

Within a previous exchange we had, you said you still see yourself as a trad climber. Have you managed to fit in many routes in 2024? If so, what (and where)?

I am a trad climber at heart, but this year seems to have turned into a year of bouldering. I haven't done many routes at all, 105 I think.

My favorite route of the year was The Iron Fist (E5 6b) at The Limekilns. It was great fun! A hard crack with no face holds and poor feet, it starts as fingers, to hands, to fists (the iron fist), definitely sustained all the way! Davina and I had looked at it a few years ago but I never got on it. This year we planned a visit especially to try it. After warming up on a few others, I was gutted to fall just before the top after battling past the crux, I was pumped out of my mind! Definitely going back for that one!

The Fist!  © apollo18
The Fist!
© apollo18, Sep 2020

Another route I was happy to have climbed was Old Greig (E3 5b) at Garheugh Port (this was a probable FA). Named after the local Carlisle legend Alan Greig. He had climbed the left side of the arete (Deathwish (E3 5b) - no protection, snappy holds, and above large jagged blocks (so probably E6!) - we top-roped it!) but he couldn't remember for certain if he had climbed the right-hand side. 

photo
The super sharp arete of Deathwish
© morpcat, Jun 2014

I thought it would also be a solo, but upon inspection discovered some runners above the crux, and the landing is much better on this side, so a couple of pads were sufficient to protect the start. 

Amongst all the climbing you seem to manage to get an impressive amount of running and cycling. What is it that motivates you to do different sports/disciplines?

I have always enjoyed pushing myself. More than one person has been angry at me for going too fast up the hills on the way to the crag! ('it's just my normal pace'). I enjoy being outside, and with long summer days you can do big things. It also seems to rain a lot in the north, and I don't really like being inside. So running/cycling is more fun than climbing indoors, even if it is cold, wet and windy.

What do you see as the similarities and differences between climbing and fell running in particular, as there's a lot of overlap between those who climb and those who run (myself included)?

It's all about being outside. Being active, using your muscles and mind, you can't beat being out on the fell, whether running, climbing or cycling on a sunny day with glorious views. Ticking off the summits, or miles, is similar to ticking the routes at a crag.

You completed the George Fisher Tea Round in October. Firstly, why October? Secondly, how did it go??

Why October ... .I didn't think it was my idea, but Reuben, who I ran with, is adamant it was! But I thought we might as well do it now, so I did my usual 1 training run (my first in 4 months) and decided we were ready! One day I will learn to train properly!

The day started off fine, but it then turned into a typical lakes day - the whole caboodle. Rain, snow, sleet, horizontal hail, 40mph winds, -9c wind chill. At one point I had to force Reuben to put some layers on as he had only come out in shorts and t-shirt! (there's an hour he can't remember!) Warm clothes and some jelly babies soon sorted him out and we were on our way again. Thankfully we dropped out of the bad weather and the day ended, as it started with fine weather. 

In years gone by you've also completed the Bob Graham Round (solo) and Coast to Coast. With regards to the Bob Graham in particular, does that share any of those same values you enjoy about the mileage you've managed within climbing?

I think the feeling of satisfaction you get at the end of a big run, or a day out ticking the crag, is the same. It's nice to get home and feel tired, in your body and your mind. 

The Bob Graham felt like one of those 12hr winter climbing days. You just keep going. I enjoy the mental (and physical) aspect involved in these challenges.

Sea to Sea  © Pete Gunn
Sea to Sea
© Pete Gunn

You also completed the absolutely whopping Lakes and Dales ride back in August, accumulating over 322km of distance and 5388m ascent. Can you tell us a bit more about the experience of doing that and what cycling means to you?

My first love was mountain biking, and competed in XC in my teenage years. I was the only paperboy in my town able to get up our local hill (West Hill) with 2 full bags!

Although I don't do much mountain biking now, I enjoy getting out on the road bike. I decided to do the Lakes & Dales as I saw a little blue sign at the side of the road and googled it! I think most people do it over 3-6 days, but I thought I could do it in a day. I managed to speak to some other daft person who did it in a day, so it didn't seem out 

Lakes and Dales loop  © Pete Gunn
Lakes and Dales loop
© Pete Gunn
of the question. It was a long time in the saddle, at 16hrs 30m, setting off at 4.40am and covering 200 miles around the Lakes, Dales, and Eden Valley. It's actually 197 miles, but I wanted to get into the 200 club!

I did underestimate the amount of climbing involved though, which seemed relentless at times. But then again, that's what I enjoy most about these big days out. It is a fantastic route with magnificent scenery, and I highly recommend it whether you do it in a day or a week.

Finally, what are your plans for 2025?

I've got a couple of things. I'm keen to try and run the Hadrian's Wall path (but as a coast to coast, so a little bit extra) in under 24hrs. I'd also like to try and cycle the 'Way of the Roses' route. 

And do some more trad, as I think my rack felt neglected this year. Lakes Classic rock round anyone? 




Inspirational year Pete. Nice one!

Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email