UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (116) - Mucky Gulley

© staceyjg
photo
Staceyjg on The Cracks - Dinas Mot!
© staceyjg

I have been climbing on and off for a few years. It started with indoor climbing at the Rockface in Birmingham, then off to Pembroke for Coasteering on my 30th birthday and those fateful words from my dad “I booked the other half a day for kayaking, because you already climb” “Noooooooo... that's indoors..... ring them back immediately and tell them to book me on the rock climbing session” I cry. It was only top-roped, but it was on real rock, I was hooked.

I met my partner through an interest in climbing and he went on lead courses that I had no time or inclination to attend and I remained his second, following him wherever he wanted to go. I sat at the bottom, held the rope and took out his gear on the way up. I had no aspirations to be a leader, I just loved climbing.

Then, when we split in February, I found myself moping with nothing to do, so I turned to climbing. I found that no one really wanted to climb with me because I was not a leader, so I started to buy my kit; got a rope first, then some krabs, then some slings and soon enough I had half a rack but I had run out of money - now all I needed was a partner.

I had climbed indoors with Mark on several occasions and here he was one week telling me he now climbed outdoors, so not long after this we headed to The Dewerstone to lead my first route - I was terrified! My first route was Mucky Gulley, only a VDiff, I stood at the bottom preparing myself, knowing that I was going to be climbing above the gear. Mark knew I was nervous because I actually shut up for a while. I prepared myself, put on my helmet and started to climb, checked with him whether I needed to extend, which rope I needed to use, red or green, and constantly checking my gear placement to make sure it would hold should I fall (not that I really wanted to test it). I got about two-thirds of the way up and realised that I only had one quick draw left... I'd started off with ten, where had the rest of them gone? I realised I had placed that much protection that I'd used up all my quick draws. I called to Mark “I only have one quick draw left, what should I do?”, “Can you set up a belay where you are?” he replied. I had no problem setting up belays, but setting up a hanging belay on a first lead was a little unusual. I set up the belay, Mark followed me, commenting on my gear placement as he did. When he reached my belay he gave me my gear, at this point I realised I was going to have to continue, the second pitch of the route awaited me. I started off and immediately saw the problem... it was exposed, the thing I dreaded the most, I had to step across an open gap before I had any gear placed. It went by in a blur.

I have now led 15 climbs, including a couple of alternate leads on multi-pitch routes and sports routes too and I still shut-up with nerves before it's my turn to lead. Until I start leading then the air turns blue with curses of “why do I do this?”

I still don't know why I do it but the smile that lights my face when I'm climbing..... well there is nothing else like it!

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE



Comments

Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email