UKC

Any Anglesey bouldering recommendations

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 Obi Wan 30 Jul 2021

Taking our family summer holiday on Anglesey this year.

Just wondered if anyone had any recommendations for a spot of bouldering while I am there.

Would ideally need to be child/family friendly, good landings and not too high as I only have room for my flight pad when on family hols.

 Obi Wan 31 Jul 2021
In reply to Obi Wan:

Anyone? I had looked at Moelfre but not sure if highball is the way forward with a flight pad.

 Sherlock 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Obi Wan:

Moelfre would be pretty exciting with a wee pad.

Try Feddwr Fawr. Lovely spot, sort of Devon/Cornwall vibe.

However we failed on the approach  due to neck high bracken. You might be made of sterner stuff 😊. Decided to go back in the autumn.

Try around Treaddur Bay, I'm sure there's stuff I've seen online but can't find ATM.

To be honest apart from Treaddur and Moelfre (highball/hard landing) I would guess that a lot of stuff is secluded and not the best place to turn an ankle on your own. Perhaps the Pass or Ogwen might be better?

Of course, locals will know a lot more than me but you didn't seem to be getting many answers.

 Obi Wan 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Sherlock:

Thanks for that. I'll see what I can find on the place you mentioned. Is there a Topo that you know of?

I think I will definitely give Moelfre a miss. Highball + flight pad = A&E

 Sl@te Head 01 Aug 2021
 Sherlock 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Obi Wan:

I saw a a Topo for Treaddur Bay but can't find it now, sorry!

In reply to Obi Wan:

Did a bit of this last September:

Moelfre - flat but hard landings (it's all tidal rock platform). Only did easy stuff but it's a bit highball; e.g. the 4c slab felt very bold. Take care with damp/greasy areas. Easy access.

Penmon - some is highball with bad landings (e.g. Summiteering boulder, I ran away), some is sharp, Angler's platform area is more friendly but tidal, can get crowded with fishing folk; spotted seals, porpoises, etc. Tidal. Access is more complicated, Angler's platform probably easiest bit to get to.

Benllech beach - flat sandy landings, quality not great, some areas of doubtful rock stability which are reasonably obvious, but as family friendly as it gets. Ideal for no pad or small pad.

 Obi Wan 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Michael Hood:

Penmon sounds good. Actually went for a look at benlech a few years ago but had to leave due to the amount of dog poo!

 Obi Wan 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Sherlock:

> I saw a a Topo for Treaddur Bay but can't find it now, sorry!

That would have been perfect; actually meeting up with a friend of mine for the day who is staying in treaddur. Was it online?

 Sherlock 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Obi Wan:

I'm fairly sure it was on north wales bouldering.com but can't find it now.

I suppose it could have been taken down as the NWB guide to coastal crags is due later this year.

Maybe email Simon Panton?

My memory is sketchy but if locate the spooky house on the headland, there's some stuff hidden around there.

Post edited at 17:23
 Obi Wan 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Sherlock:

> My memory is sketchy but if locate the spooky house on the headland, there's some stuff hidden around there.

Actually, that is sounding familiar. I think I saw that Topo years ago. I'll do some digging.

 string arms 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Obi Wan:

Ghost cave is the venue in treaddur bay

all info on ukc 

 Si Panton 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Obi Wan:

I did a news item on it a few years ago but haven't done that chapter for the forthcoming NWB Coastal Crags volume yet.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=883

I assume you have already looked at the logbook page on here? Plenty of info on there.

There's a load of new crags in the Fedw Fawr - Penmon area, but if you've just got a spot pad they are not ideal. The crag that is listed as Caim on here is probably your best bet as the landing in the first area is a flat smooth wave cut platform and is friendly.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/caim-25039#overview

Park sensibly in Caim then walk down the lovely wooded valley (Coed yr Hendy) to the coast. Scramble down to a collection of blocks. There's a lot more been done recently than is listed on here but I'm sure you'll suss it out - if you want something harder just do sitters to the listed lines.

Castell Mawr at Red Wharf Bay is good and has lots of low level, cave type stuff that would be okay with a spot pad. The database on here is pretty confusing though as Phil has packed it with a huge number of variations. Don't worry about that, just doing all the different. sections on the trav will keep you busy for hours.

 Si Panton 02 Aug 2021
 Si Panton 02 Aug 2021
In reply to string arms:

Ha! Phil, you can meet him at Castell Mawr and show him all the desperate variation links you've worked out!

 Si Panton 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Si Panton:

I'm actually editing the Castell Mawr chapter right now. It's coming together nicely.

 Obi Wan 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Si Panton:

Thanks for all the info, really appreciate it. Liking the look of Caim, will give it a look 

 Sl@te Head 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Obi Wan:

Just beyond Moelfre...

Ogof Moryn and Pedolau

Unfortunately I never got round to sorting any topos..

 Obi Wan 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Sl@te Head:

> Just beyond Moelfre...

Awesome! Thanks for that, looks good. 

 string arms 02 Aug 2021
In reply to Si Panton:

There goes Anglesys best kept secret si! Ha ha 😂

 Sl@te Head 03 Aug 2021
 Obi Wan 04 Aug 2021
 Obi Wan 22 Aug 2021
In reply to Si Panton:

So going to head to Caim on your recommendation. Before I do, is it tidal? Or is it ok to drag the kids down there any time of day?

 Obi Wan 03 Sep 2021
In reply to Obi Wan:

So had cracking weather. Managed to get to Caim, checked tide times, found the footpath through the woods (beautiful stroll). Posted climbing stuff, and kids through the "letterbox" down to the boulders.... Then had to abort! Mrs Obi does not like heights (even small ones) or confined spaces so mission ended at that point. No climbing had. Nice spot though, will definitely try and get back.


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