UKC

Benchmark Uk northern bouldering

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Ehmarra 17 Jun 2020

Its come up a lot recently between friends but interested to see what people think the benchmark problems would be for font 6a to 7a? (peaks, lakes, lancs, Northumberland, Yorks)

e.g.

6a - three pebble slab , Roaches.

1
 Ian W 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

<gets popcorn (XL size)>

 Doug 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

>  (peaks, lakes, lancs, Northumberland, Yorks)

UK or England ?

 probablylost 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

6A+: Strawberries at Curbar

 scragrock 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

Northern?

OP Ehmarra 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Doug:

haha my bad. Northern England. 

OP Ehmarra 17 Jun 2020
In reply to probablylost:

I thought this was 6b? and I imagine its a benchmark 6b its feels hard lol

Post edited at 10:52
OP Ehmarra 17 Jun 2020
In reply to scragrock:

Anywhere north of Crewe (apparently the gateway to the north, according to the pies and prejudice book ha) and south of Berwick upon Tweed ha

 JimHolmes69 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

Blackstone slab for 6a+ Blackstone edge

Splashdown for 6b Widdop

Flying Arete for 6b Almscliffe. 

That seems a good start. 

 JimHolmes69 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

Otley Wall 6a Caley Crags is also a good start for this grade.

OP Ehmarra 17 Jun 2020
In reply to JimHolmes69:

Yeah I was thinking splashdown. I actually found Blackstone slab harder than most of the 7as at Blackstone lol. I felt it was about 6b

OP Ehmarra 17 Jun 2020
In reply to JimHolmes69:

Heard this is good. Never tried it. 

 Jon Stewart 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

> Yeah I was thinking splashdown. I actually found Blackstone slab harder than most of the 7as at Blackstone lol. I felt it was about 6b

I thought Blackstone Slab was hard for 6a+, and Flying Arete hard for 6b. 

I'd have Pebble Wall, Almscliffe for 6c (for technicality) or The Overhang, Langdale (for brutality). I wouldn't have Rouse's Wall, as although it's the best of its grade in the Lakes, it took me about 10 years to do! 

Beachball might be benchmark 7a. I don't think there is such a thing as benchmark 6c+ as they seem to be either quite doable or utterly impossible. It's no one's favourite grade, is it?

 harrison 17 Jun 2020
In reply to JimHolmes69:

Almscliff

Flying Arete seems to be a poor benchmark because the crux for me is the span out to the good hold and its horrible (f6B+/C), whereas if you have longer arms / lank its trivial to reach the good hold and the top out is the crux (f6A/+).
If a long armed person and a short armed person take that as a benchmark you would end up with two very different grading systems.
Its a very good problem though.

Pebble Wall makes more sense to me as a benchmark (if you're tall the rockover is awkward, but the end is easier, if you're short vice versa) although I think its kinda soft at f6C - uk 6b so f6B+(?) (easier than flying arete for me).

I would say Dolphin Belly Slap should be benchmark f6C or f6C+ (feels soft for f7A to me).

I think Morrel's Wall is f6A+ / uk 6a and thats a good benchmark.

Crusis and Demon Wall Roof also good benchmark problems imo.

Peak

I think Cave Problem at Robin Hood's Stride is a benchmark f7A

You could take The Sheep in Burbage Valley as benchmark f6C+

Some savage V4's:
Tiger f6B in Burbage Valley (and actually all the V4s there)
Strawberries f6B at Curbar (how did Trackside get f7A - especially when this is right next to it)
Ripple f6B+ at Newstones and Baldstones

 JimHolmes69 17 Jun 2020
In reply to harrison:

Fair point. 

 mop449 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

In my opinion for the Eastern Grit:

6A - Go West (f6A+)Banana Finger (f6A) (touch soft?)

6B - Strawberries (f6B)Egg Arête (f6B) both full value at 6B

6C - Razor Roof (f6C)The Ultimate Gritstone Experience (f6C)Life in a Radioactive Dustbin (f6C)Not to be Taken Away (f6C)

7A - Gorilla Warfare (f7A)

Plenty of quality that I've missed off that list though!

Post edited at 17:07
OP Ehmarra 17 Jun 2020
In reply to mop449:

Yeah razor, though I've not done it, felt about right at 6c. I'd live to try ultimate gritstone ex

OP Ehmarra 17 Jun 2020
In reply to harrison:

The ripple is hard and strangely scary.

The cave problem is on my list as I've heard it's a quality  climb. Though I gotta say it it's not the most attractive line.

OP Ehmarra 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Yeah Blackstone slab took me ages and more than one session. The day I got it was the the same day I got swingers (7a, soft???) In two goes...I still say that even though ive done some 7as,6cs ,6bs etc Blackstone slab was still one of my hardest climbs lol. But conditions play a huge part in that problem and height. Of which 5/9 doesn't quite cut it 

Post edited at 19:50
 bouldery bits 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

Shadowplay is bench 8c.

 greg_may_ 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

Blackstone Slab...I hate you so much.

Can do a lot of other problems At the grade but this one flummoxed me for a long time.

In reply to harrison:

> Almscliff

> Flying Arete seems to be a poor benchmark because the crux for me is the span out to the good hold and its horrible (f6B+/C), whereas if you have longer arms / lank its trivial to reach the good hold and the top out is the crux (f6A/+).

> If a long armed person and a short armed person take that as a benchmark you would end up with two very different grading systems.

> Its a very good problem though.

> Pebble Wall makes more sense to me as a benchmark (if you're tall the rockover is awkward, but the end is easier, if you're short vice versa) although I think its kinda soft at f6C - uk 6b so f6B+(?) (easier than flying arete for me).

I think both those problems are poor benchmarks.  I guess your view of a benchmark somewhat depends on your definition of "tall" (and how strong the "tall" people you know are).  I'm 6'3" and always found Flying Arete horrendous, with the top-out bunched and harrowing.  Pebble Wall similar - supposed 7as in the area were part of my warm-up circuit (e.g. Crucifix Arete SS without the break, DBS, Crucifix Low Traverse).  Pebble Wall is definitely not part of the circuit - a foot-fracturing horror with long legs - I would more easily repeat a few 7bs.

Post edited at 22:05
 justdoit 17 Jun 2020
In reply to Ehmarra:

The Crack (V0) at the langdale boulders, not too sure why but it always seems to stump me when ever I climb it.

Post edited at 22:08

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...