UKC

best 6a boulder in the peak

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 mattc 28 Sep 2023

looking for some good 6a boulders in the peak if anyone can recommend any worth seeking out. Nothing with poor landings or highballs thanks  

3
 JLS 28 Sep 2023
In reply to mattc:

Go try Conan the Librarian. I know it says 6B+ but I reckon it’s fairly benign with a good landing.

Conan the Librarian (f6B+)

27
 scooba2cv 28 Sep 2023
In reply to Jim blackford:

Three pocket slab is a great shout little bit of spicyness if done over a single pad. Couple of pads and it would be a definite classic for the grade. 

In reply to JLS:

> Go try Conan the Librarian. I know it says 6B+ but I reckon it’s fairly benign with a good landing.

Brilliant problem, but maybe doesn’t hit the ‘not highballs’ request. I found the last move ‘thought provoking’ above one pad. I’m not very brave though😳

In reply to AlanLittle:

 I'd say this is a contender

 deepsoup 29 Sep 2023
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Brilliant or no, it's a blatant sandbag to be recommending to somebody looking for non-highball 6a problems.

 LakesWinter 29 Sep 2023
In reply to Jim blackford:

Marxist Undertones (f6A) got quite high iirc, although the start was the hardest bit. Really good problem though.

 Ross Barker 29 Sep 2023
In reply to mattc:

Wildy's Right (f6A) is a great little problem. Good landing and not highball.

 JLS 29 Sep 2023
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Strangely perhaps, I'd wouldn't consider Conan highball. Is it much over 4m? Above a perfect landing 4m to me seems fine.  Technically, I didn't find it harder than just about any 6A in Fontainebleau; La Marie Rose etc. Maybe I was just having a good day and regular Dumby bouldering has desensitised me to high boulders.

14
 steveriley 29 Sep 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Wildy's is a good shout, elegant moves, and you can also get a couple of bonus points nearby - Left, SS, and you can amuse your friends on Twisted Crack. I left Joe's Arete alone out of respect last time I was there, it's looking a bit worn now

1
 Dave Garnett 29 Sep 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

> Wildy's Right (f6A) is a great little problem. Good landing and not highball.

I agree.  There's something very neat about it - easy if you get it exactly right, impossible if you don't.  Make sure it's completely dry though. 

 joeruckus 29 Sep 2023
In reply to mattc:

These get 1 star each, they're all low and have good landings, and they're surrounded by other things to warm-up or progress on to:

Side-wall Slot (f6A) on Trackside at Curbar

Magnetic North Start (f6A) at Stanage Apparent North

Lower Cube Traverse (f6A+) at Stanage Apparent North

Post edited at 09:50
1
 ChrisBrooke 29 Sep 2023
In reply to joeruckus:

Conan is definitely high. Even above three pads it feels high. Making the last move and scuttling off to the right at the top is always a bit scary. 

Pebble Arête (f6A) is 6A now and excellent, but also high and many people find the last move scary. 

All Quiet on the Eastern Front (f6A+) is excellent but high and scary

I boulder a fair bit and am struggling to think of really good 6As on the Eastern edges that aren't high!

Banana Finger (f6A) is thought of as a classic. It's alright, but benefits from at least two pads as it's a traverse.

The Celtic Cross (f6A+) has recently been upgraded from 5 to 6A+ at Burbage South. Now that *is* an excellent problem. The landing is fine (although you need to take a bit of care) and it's not high. 

Go West (f6A+) is really good, but high with an awful finish.... arghhh, this isn't going well.

Joe's Slab (f6A) is 6A at Froggatt. Really good, but high and a bit awkward to get down from (I tend to just reverse the problem)

Tiny Slab Right (f6A) is good. A bit eliminate, but excellent for working your slab skills/footwork. Not high. Good landing.

Capped Rib (f6A) 6A**. I don't remember it and it's a bit of a walk, but I made a note in my logbook that it's really good.

Suzanne (f6A) 6A*** at Stanage Popular. High. 

Scoop Eliminate (f6B) used to be 6A+ I think. Now 6B, but probably the best of the bunch here. Reasonable landing, addictive, beguiling climbing. 

Crescent Groovelet (f6A) is now 6A. Perfect landing, fun moves to figure out. 

So in short, it looks like you get some more pads, some spotters, or used to being high if you want quality 6A(+)s. I'm as surprised by this as you might be.

Post edited at 10:33
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

What about Egg Arête (f6B)? Fairly ungradeable so we can probably take the liberty of calling it 6a, right? Landing perfect. Not highball. Unforgettable experience for everyone who's tried it....

1
 ianstevens 29 Sep 2023
In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

I actually thought it was 6A and came here to recommend it. Probably been grade-inflationed by the poor of technique

1
 AlanLittle 29 Sep 2023
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

> Banana Finger (f6A) is thought of as a classic. It's alright, but benefits from at least two pads as it's a traverse.

I liked it when I first did it some time in the 90s. Was shocked when I got on it again recently at how horribly polished the footholds are these days

 Andrew Wells 29 Sep 2023
In reply to JLS:

Conan the Librarian is 6B+ you silly sausage

Anyway Love Handles on Stanage Far Left is great, but high. I'd say that Celtic Cross is a great shout, although it now gets 6A+!

Tiny Slab is a great shout. Good problem, not high, easy top, good landing 

 mop449 29 Sep 2023
In reply to mattc:

I think if it's 6A now then Pebble Arête (f6A) is the best one I've done in the Peak. The landing is perfect, but it's maybe a touch highball.

If you're looking for good 6A's that aren't too high, with good landings then my suggestions would be at  Burbage South Valley Boulders

Alaska (f6A)

Weird but fun, and loads of variations and eliminates

Huggy Sit-start (f6A)

Great option for a first 6A as the stand is a 5 that you can work first

Open Flakeline (f6A)

Sandbagged but brilliant

Are any of these the best 6A in the Peak? No, not even close. Do they fulfill all your other requirements? I think so. 

 Jono.r23 30 Sep 2023
In reply to mattc:

The Burb north suggestions are worth going for esp Banana Finger & Tiny Slab. Starting at the bridge theres another one there too, and a couple of small roofs along the edge both worth a go but not ‘best’ in any way. Good venue for ticking a bunch at the grade though and you can decide for yourself how good they are. Since other grades have been suggested, i’ll do the same. Cleos Edge also burb north. 5+ i think but harder and better than several 6As mentioned

 midgen 30 Sep 2023
In reply to mop449:

> I think if it's 6A now then Pebble Arête (f6A) is the best one I've done in the Peak. The landing is perfect, but it's maybe a touch highball. 

The landing is perfect if you clear the scoop at the bottom, otherwise you break your ankles, as a friend of mine can attest to! 


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...