UKC

Bouldering grade

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 Flinticus 26 Mar 2025

Hi. How does Edin Rock grade its problems. Doesn't appear to use either font or V grades.

Ta

 DaveHK 26 Mar 2025
In reply to Flinticus:

It's their own system I think and it's just a relative difficulty so higher number = harder problem. I suspect it reduces the number of complaints about grades being wrong! I found I quickly got my head around what numbers I should be trying.

edit: I saw some prominent signs there explaining the system.

Post edited at 16:18
In reply to DaveHK:

I was there today. The Griptonite app gives the problems Font grades. I think there’s a board somewhere which has conversions on it.  

 Fraser 27 Mar 2025
In reply to DaveHK:

But I suspect it'll increase the number of complaints about people trying to reinvent the wheel. It annoys me when bouldering walls feel the need to introduce a bespoke grading system or setters/walls lack the confidence to use the very well tried and tested systems that have already been in place for decades. It's only a guide, so just use Font or V grades for heaven's sake.

 DaveHK 27 Mar 2025
In reply to Fraser:

I felt like that initially but actually it works fine. It's only plastic.  

 Michael Hood 27 Mar 2025
In reply to Fraser:

If wall grades were equivalent to outdoor grades then you'd have a point - as it is...

1
In reply to DaveHK:

> I felt like that initially but actually it works fine. It's only plastic.  

I didn’t realise it was an internal grading system until recently. I just thought they were soft touch V grades. Doh!

 cathsullivan 27 Mar 2025
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

> The Griptonite app gives the problems Font grades.

I used to like that but I can no longer see it - the app seems to just have the ER grade bands (except for the circuit board) as far as I can see. Am I missing something?

>  I think there’s a board somewhere which has conversions on it.  

Yes, there's a board which tells you what grade bands the different numbers cover. I assume they are font grades. So IIRC 3 is F6a and F6a+. 

Post edited at 09:45
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