UKC

Hey, where's good for a newbie to bouldering, but not climbing, to go near Edinburgh this winter?
Have been for a wee play at Agnezi (bad spelling I know!) rock Blackford but would like to try somewhere with a bit more options. Thinking of Salisbury Crag too.
I know Glen Clova and Northumberland have loads but that bit too far for a Sat afternoon.
Anywhere else recommended?

Ta

In reply to JFort:

I'm looking for some Edinburgh options as well.. although I think winter bouldering in this area might be a bit wet?
Will keep checking back here..

In reply to JFort: I've heard there's some easy stuff on salisbury crags, enver been though so i couldn't say exactly

In reply to JFort:

Ive seen a few people bouldering, well doing traverses at Rosyth Quarry. There are also a few short diff and Vdiff routes that are suitable and an easy Mod (the descent route) you could do.

Or are you thinking a bit harder than that?

Hope his helps

SDB

In reply to JFort:

Salisbury Crags is the obvious one - the black wall stuff is the best, but there is plenty to explore around the South Quarry area.

The starts of the sport routes at North Berwick are worth an afternoon.

There's a bit of boulderable stuff at Limekilns as well, like the traverse of the east face on the big block.

There's also Ravenscraig in Kirkcaldy and Fontforth, but I haven't visited those.

In reply to JFort:
Ravenscraig is OK but sandy and the local youth can be problematic occasionally, not many easy problems ands its all thuggy stuff; check the tide tables though!

There is also plenty stuff up around Comrie such as Glen Lednock but there is an access issue that means a longer walk at the mo but the quality of the problems makes up for it

Craig Lug near St Andrews is also OK but once again be careful with the access and be prepared to walk in.

Loch Katrine in the Trossachs is great but very little low end bouldering but stunning scenery and worth a visit once you are climbing in the Font 6's

If you go to find crags on UKC and search there is also a small sandstone crag on your side of the Forth that would be suitable.

Get out and explore

Thanks all!

A few places to think about and get out to explore!

Has/does anyone go to Northumberland very often?

In reply to JFort:


All the time. If you're getting more into bouldering it's well worth getting acquainted with Kyloe-in and Bowden/Back Bowden for starters. They are superb. But pretty much all the northern crags (~1.5hrs from Edinburgh) have at least some good problems.

In reply to andy moles:
Second Kyloe-in, loads of bouldering and really not that far if your making a day of it. Agassiz Rock is pretty sheltered for winter bouldering not many problems thou.

In reply to JFort:
Shaftoe is another fine venue with a good selection of easier problems.

Closer to home Wolfcrag at Stirling is ok but not the most atmospheric spot.

In reply to JFort:

Hummel rocks near Gullane: http://streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?x=347335&y=683580&z=120&sv=gulla...

Buddo Rock near St Andrews: http://streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?x=356825&y=714257&z=120&sv=boarh...

Great, quite a few more places to hunt down! Now am really pissed off that I have stuff on the next two weekends that don't involve getting out climbing!

Where's Shaftoe?

Hummeel rocks look nice, do love the sea side too.

Cheers

In reply to JFort:
..> Where's Shaftoe?
..
A long way from Edinburgh. Check out Dovehole/Goatscrag.

In reply to JDal:

Dovewhole and Goatscrag are in Northumberland Google tells me, not close either but could be an option.

Anyone got any good websites/guide for bouldering there? not having much luck!

In reply to JFort:
No, but a lot closer than Shaftoe.

There's a topo for Dovehole on sale in the cafe at Millfield, at least there used to be. Some info on the crags (how to get there, what they're made of etc etc) is at http://thenmc.org.uk/onlineguide/

In reply to JFort:

In terms of Edinburgh, Salisbury Crags is the best option, not great but a good setting and some decent problems, especially on a nice sunny evening. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16 there are usually a few climbers up there to point out the problems... or just follow the chalk!

Get the NMC guide to Bouldering in Northumberland, that'll give you all the info you need. Doveholes, Bowden, Back Bowden, Kyloe in the woods and Kyloe are all pretty close to Edinburgh (1.5hrs).

This site has Logbooks for all these crags, will give you an idea of the grades, etc.

In reply to JFort:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=41261

This is the one to do at Salisbury Crags.