UKC

Chicken Ninja

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 TobyA 29 May 2025

I keep seeing pictures of Chicken Ninja (f6A+) at Stanton Moor - it seems to be becoming a bit of a UKC shoe testing test track if nothing else, and because it's a slab and people say it is so good I want to climb it. The main problem is, I don't think I've ever climbed a 6A+, haven't as far as I can remember climbed a 6A in several years, and the 6As that I have done are few enough in number to probably all be soft touches or I didn't do them right etc. 

But I do like slabs and I'm better on slabs than any other type of climbs, well maybe not cracks, but my hardest cracks have all been the civilised side of vertical. I flashed a 6b+ in Hong Kong at Easter and only have the 6c left to do on the Library Slab at Moss Rake, having now done all the 6bs and 6b+s. I've also found some F5 and F5+ grit slab problems pretty easy too.

Any tips from people who have sent it? Does it have to be really cold to be good or is it green and dank in the winter? Is it reasonably easy to jump/slide off it if you don't get it right? Any other words of encouragement (or mockery)? :⁠-⁠)


Can I send Chicken Ninja?

Toby stands a fighting chance of getting up Chicken Ninja
21 votes | 0%
Toby doesn't stand any chance of getting up Chicken Ninja
3 votes | 0%
Toby will lose some skin from both face and hand but will ultimately get up it.
9 votes | 0%
Toby will get up it, generally intact (except perhaps his dignity) and then realise the only true path is the dark art and set about his lifes work to collect a pair of every model of fruit boots ever made
2 votes | 0%
Many attempts resulting in humiliation and dark despair. Then cue extended training montage to music "Gonna fly now" (Rocky) leading to eventual triumphant success
7 votes | 0%
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 aln 29 May 2025
In reply to TobyA:

You've forgotten the 'who cares?' option.

1
OP TobyA 30 May 2025
In reply to aln:

You can add it if you wish, but if you're not at all interested I'm not sure why you would?

OP TobyA 30 May 2025
In reply to TobyA:

Thank you for additional voting options, they made me laugh and probably tell me a lot about the problem! 

As for the dark art Neil ;⁠-⁠) my big problem is that it's all the opposite of slabby! 

 Cake 30 May 2025
In reply to TobyA:

I hope you appreciate the fact I've voted positively for you, despite having not sent it myself and not knowing you. For what it's worth, I looked at it a few years ago after a summer under the tree that is there and it was really dirty, so we moved on. Perhaps this extra traffic will keep it clean

 C Rettiw 30 May 2025
In reply to TobyA:

3-step plan for success:

1. Go take a look. 

2. Pull on.

3. Refine your sequence.

I predict it will take you somewhere between 1 minute and 1 year, if you stick carefully to the above plan. However, many people struggle with the rigours of following these steps, so... ultimately, it's up to you. Do you have the necessary determination? 

 ChrisBrooke 30 May 2025
In reply to TobyA:

I did it at this time of year, last year. Looking at my video (the one on the logbook page) it looks pretty green, but I think the bits you need to stand on are ok. Take two pads: my memory is that it felt a bit more committing than expected, in part because the landing slopes away a little. Two pads can flatten it out a bit. Take a brush stick if you have one. Check out and brush the top holds first so you can see what's up there. 
Other than that, it's just steep walking, innit. Confidence in standing on grit slopey things. And a lovely place to hang out of course. And probably way less green than when I did it, given recent weather.

OP TobyA 30 May 2025
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Unfortunately I only have one mat, and it's older than my 19 year old son who often now comes bouldering and climbing with me (he'll probably onsight it, the infuriating child). But I have seriously been considering getting a newer one though... ;⁠-⁠)

 Nick1812P 30 May 2025
In reply to TobyA:

firstly buy a new pad, then take both of them to try it, not essential but peak bouldering is always better with a couple of pads.

make sure you take someone to hold the pads, the fall isn't bad but the landing slopes down a lot so thee's a big chance of careering down hill when the top pad glides off.

It's not very hard, if you're an experienced climber with half decent footwork you'll be fine, it's probably comparable to a slabby E1 crux.

 ChrisBrooke 30 May 2025
In reply to TobyA:

Come to Millhouses and borrow my Core Titan if you want. 

 ChrisBrooke 30 May 2025
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Or I’ve got a Moon Saturn that I don’t use much. 

In reply to Nick1812P:

I'd agree with having a second person there. As previously mentioned, it's not particularly high but the sloped landing meant that when I fell on one try, I had to catch myself on the tree below to avoid continuing down the hill. Otherwise though, the feet were nice and obvious and it's pretty standard smearing, good fun!

OP TobyA 30 May 2025
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Very kind offer Chris, but I'm about to borrow a mate's from down the road here in Dronfield. He's just had a baby (well technically his wife has!) so I guess won't need it for a few days. Cheers though!

 ChrisBrooke 30 May 2025
In reply to TobyA:

Cool. As a middle aged man I’m a strong advocate for ‘as many pads as you can carry’. I don’t bounce like a youngster. 

OP TobyA 30 May 2025
In reply to all:

Right: in a fit of enthusiasm this afternoon, after the drizzle ended, I headed down there with child 2 (19) and child 3 (7). This turned out to be overly enthusiastic because Chicken Ninja slab was still gopping and green. We did some easier problems on the easy highball section, and child 2 did Corker (f5) on the Cork Stone. I got to the top twice but whimped out mantling onto the top, agree with Chris about not bouncing like a youngster anymore! I'll be back to try Chicken Ninja. Cheers all. 


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