UKC

Hard safe E3's at the Plantation

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 climbingjohn 05 Jul 2007
My good friend was askin for the soft touch E1/2 at the plantation, which simply wont do.(soft touch, you should hang your head in shame adam )

Now i want a nice E36a with good gear but hard climbing. I would like vertical or steeper and NO chimney's dont like that buisness of udging my way up horrible holes.
Ok any feedback would be good, if i can get this sorted the next grade is the black routes mmmmm rockfax black
Stalky 05 Jul 2007
In reply to climbingjohn: I've never come across an E3 chimney , have you?
 seagull 05 Jul 2007
In reply to climbingjohn:

Seeing as you know exactly the grade, crag and area of crag which you wish to climb might I suggest looking at the guidebook. Or am I missing something?

Yorkspud 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Stalky:
> (In reply to climbingjohn) I've never come across an E3 chimney , have you?

The Deep - Cullernose Point
 gear boy 05 Jul 2007
In reply to climbingjohn: better routes are scarier runout ones, wall end slab super direct and super duper direct

soft touch telli easy if you are tall or long armed
 adam carless 05 Jul 2007
In reply to seagull:

That a good point, especially since the logbooks on this site suggest there's only 2 routes at the required grade at Stanage Plantation.
OP climbingjohn 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Stalky:
No but i take no notice of chimneys so wouldnt know.

In reply to seagull:
I know the grade and area but you cant get a feeling for the routes from a book. I was hoping someone would give me a little bit local info.
 Dom Whillans 05 Jul 2007
In reply to climbingjohn: asp
OP climbingjohn 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Dom Whillans:
asp?
 seagull 05 Jul 2007
In reply to climbingjohn:

Not trying to be a smartarse but the number of threads started asking for increasingly narrowly defined suggestions for routes is getting silly.

May as well start one.........."Pockety 15 move Font 7c traverses at the right hand end of Raven Tor which begin with the letter P and have the hardest move at the end - Suggestions please."

Have a look in the guide, go to the crag, have a go at the route (if you fancy it....and it's dry). Simple.

Now if it's info on a specific route or routes that you're after then that's a different question and I'll shut up as I don't know anything about the E3s at Plantation.

OP climbingjohn 05 Jul 2007
In reply to seagull:
If i had been to Stanage before i wouldnt ask but i aint. Its a good 2hrs from my house so i cant just nip up for a check. It will prob rain 1hr after i get there so i just wanted to get a little head start.

I would also rather see 1000 post on 'how can i find this route' rather than 'theres no god' or 'jesus was a wuss'.

But if you wanna talk a specific climbs there is a route right of 'Viaduct Wall' at New Mills (E4 i think) and i cant get the low move that goes from a LH crimp, RH side pull to a high crimp that seems to be miles away.
In reply to climbingjohn: sack of the plantation and go try Tippler Direct at the punter end...
OP climbingjohn 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Dom Whillans:
That sounds good to me cheers fella i will certainly check it out.

In reply to north country boy:
I will have a gander at that to, cheers.
Bitter&Twisted 05 Jul 2007
In reply to climbingjohn: Moribund - Whichever hand you get the pocket with, it should be the other one
OP climbingjohn 05 Jul 2007
In reply to Bitter&Twisted:
I will remember that and go with the wrong hand to start with then i might get it right, but probably not
 Jon Read 05 Jul 2007
In reply to climbingjohn:
> I would also rather see 1000 post on 'how can i find this route' rather than 'theres no god' or 'jesus was a wuss'.

That's very simply solved. Remove Down the Pub and Chat Room from your user profile and they'll never bother you again.

Back to the point: what about DIY (highball), In-Off or Telli? But there's better stuff further towards the popular area, like The Asp, Guillotine, or Tippler Direct.
OP climbingjohn 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Jon Read:
I have no desire to remove sections of the forum, i would just rather talk about climbing related subjects rather than topics which are nothing to do with climbing.

Had a look at the Asp in my guide last night and it looks sweet, I think thats the one im gonna go for.
 shark 06 Jul 2007
In reply to climbingjohn: Had a look at the Asp in my guide last night and it looks sweet, I think thats the one im gonna go for.


Can be wet.
 Jon Read 06 Jul 2007
In reply to climbingjohn:
> (In reply to Jon Read)
> I have no desire to remove sections of the forum, i would just rather talk about climbing related subjects rather than topics which are nothing to do with climbing.

Suit yourself, but I also couldn't stand the proliferation of non-climbing guff that start filling the forum, so it was a godsend when Nick introduced sub-forum preferences. I also don't have to see posts about mountaineering either -- brilliant!

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