In reply to jezb1:
a few suggestions:
The Incredible Shaking Man sds (f7B) I would say top end 7A+/low 7B, amazing problem
Jerry's Wall SS (V8) soft for the grade imo, but nice climbing on a lonely boulder
Moria (f7B) superb problem, if a tad sharp in places
Bus Stop (f7B+) classic
James Pond sds (V8+) providing there is 2 weeks of blazing sun to dry out the bog, were it not for this it would be on everyones wishlist
Barrel Groove (f7C) superb cranking. 7B+ or 7C depending on whether you use the heel toe cam, so hard for the grade and very thin
No match for climb id:487606 I have no idea what grade this gets, could be anywhere from 7A to 7B really. But basically do a full right to left traverse of the homage boulder at Bustach. Has some amazing moves and sustained sequences. Completely underrated.
Harvey Oswald (ss) (V8+) Tricky sit start into the classic stand. Nice
Rampless (f7B+) is supposed to be really nice, though I have never been bored enough to do it.
Cashmere (f7A+) more 7A+ than B really, and not the best around, but worthwhile and Tany is definitely worth visiting. This is only really here so I can suggest doing this then going and doing Tempest (f7A) which is the best 7A in north wales imo
Boneyard (V8) classic, even more classic if choose to heave rather than heel
Wavelength (V8+) classic
The Confederate (f7B+) rarely climbed but surprisingly compelling moves. Harder than any of the other 7B's on this list imo.
Johnny's Problem (f7A+) one move really, not world beating but its something to do whilst trying Bus Stop.
Willy Two Goes (f7B+) supposed to be fantastic
Witches Knickers (V8) rarely repeated and a bit esoteric, but really nice with a fantastically burly first pull.
Nick's Sexual Problem (f7B) often tried, seldom repeated. Baffling is the word.
Ultimate Warrior (f7B+) lonely but one of the best at the grade anywhere to be found (I hear)
I could go on...
Post edited at 16:55
