/ New Mills Torrs, Unidentified Route

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acrkirby - on 09 Dec 2018

New Mills Torrs

Hi, was bouldering at new Mills today and after finishing most the routes within my capabilities in my limited guide (peak district Bouldering) i decided to try a line not in the guide.

This was about a metre in from the corner of the alcove wall section on the far left of the crag. The route i did was starting from two big flat ledges at around chest height and dynoing up in one big satisfying move.

Cant seem to find it on the logbook now, though it was definitely climbed previously as already chalked up. Would like to see what it was as i found it the most fun route of the day, im guessing it was the start of a hard E grade to the pegs above but havnt been able to find out which from the UKC descriptions.

Any ideas appreciated thanks

P.S Is the Bionics Right missing a block? The book mentions a starting undercut which is not there and a very definite rock scar is, what grade do you think it is now?

zv - on 09 Dec 2018
In reply to acrkirby:

It might be worth posting a picture if you have one with the holds that you have used. I don't think this problem has been documented and maybe suggest a grade and put it on UKC?

Bionics Right is missing a good undercut that was underneath the roof and it was font 6b+ with it. I tried to climb it a couple of times (unsuccessfully) after so my take is...well harder than 6b+.

mrphilipoldham - on 09 Dec 2018
In reply to acrkirby:

The description is a bit vague.. be easier if you tell us which route it was near? Is it in the alcove wall section or the main big corner that forms Mather Crack?

acrkirby - on 09 Dec 2018
In reply to zv:

using this pic http://ukcaricaturists.com/crag.php?cragId=466 

it looks like it was the start of Ultimatum, i was missing out on a middle crimp and just going straight for the next jug, so maybe an eliminate?

Could be worth logging, not claiming first ascent at all but nice to have the climb logged, i found it fun at least...

Good to hear about that missing hold, i was getting really confused when i couldn't get it.

zv - on 09 Dec 2018
In reply to acrkirby:

There's not much documented bouldering in that section. Log it in so that other visitors can have some fun on it Sounds like you had an enjoyable day at the Torrs! Not been there in ages and I still have a few nemesis problems there.

1
MischaHY - on 10 Dec 2018
In reply to acrkirby:

Incidentally that site lists the wrong line for 'the Arete' - it actually starts up the groove and then steps rightwards to gain the crack quite high up - the direct is much trickier. 

paul mitchell - on 15 Dec 2018
In reply to acrkirby:

Dyno done before,not named.The peg above is in a project,to facilitate top roping a somewhat absurd but very fingery variation to the E4 on the right of Alcove.


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