UKC

It's that time of year again. 

Off for a family holiday, this time on the Lynn Peninsula. Any recommendations for bouldering near Aberdaron.

Usual prerequisites; preferably family/child friendly and doable with only a flight pad and not a full mat. 

Short problems, traverses, or really good landings. 

Any ideas welcome.

Not particularly helpful, Porth Ysgo is the obvious answer but I wouldn't fancy it with just a wee pad. I suppose there might be other folk around though.

You'll find slightly friendlier landings at Rhiw, just along the road.

But realistically, Obi, either buy a bigger car or leave the kids at home.....😀

Porth Ysgo is one of my favourite places in the UK to boulder. But a lot of the landings need multiple pads for me to feel comfortable, and it is not very friendly for young children. There is a small beach at one end, but it isn't up to the quality of other nearby beaches. When I stayed a few miles away from Porth Ysgo with family, I got up early to go for a quick early morning boulder before the kids got up. Then went and had a fun beach day with the children after. Walk-in is 10-15 minutes. 

The other notable bouldering areas nearby are Porth Nefoedd, Ty Mawr, and Mynydd y Graig. There is also Talfarach and Porth Dysgo, but I haven't climbed at either so can't comment on them.

For a very family friendly beach (with a pub) and minor bouldering interest, you could try Porth Dinllaen. Some of the bouldering is tidal.

For great family friendly beaches with even less bouldering interest, you could try Porth Iago and Pennlech. I didn't bother to take mats to them, I just had a little potter on the rocks every so often.

🤣🤣 I like option 2!

Thanks 👍 

Porth Dinllaen looks about right with kids and a flight pad. 

And now I'm here it's chucking down!

Decent forecast tomorrow 😀

Yep, that's why we are taking a boat trip. Maybe I might get lucky at the weekend, Saturday and Sunday looking ok

Fun fact: the bouldering known as Porth Ysgo is actually at Porth Alwm. Porth Ysgo proper, just to the W, is a delightful little cove with a picturesque waterfall at the back, accessed by a nice set of NT funded wooden stairs. You can have a lovely family day here, it's great for swimming at high tide and rockpooling at low (we once found an octopus), and scramble round to Alwm for an hour bouldering. There is plenty of lowball stuff and the high easier stuff isn't really paddable anyway.

Another great option is Porth Oer aka Whistling Sands. Very nice sandy beach with cafe, nice for swimming, brilliant for kayaking, and at high tide often fun-sized clean waves for body-boarding. At the far (NE) end is a little sub-cove which has some fun bouldering at low tide, mostly above sand so good landings, but also fun caves etc to explore with kids.

Also recommend Porth Meudwy where the Enlli boat goes from, not done any proper bouldering here but there is some potential. Lovely swimming at high tide, deep clear water.

Walk up to the Coastguard lookout on Mynydd Mawr and down to St Mary's well. There are some short trad routes near here and we've done some semi-DWS/ cliff-jumping in the zawn on hot days.

The little Gabbro 'grit' crag of Mynydd Y Graig above Rhiw has nice rock but terrible landings. Better for easy solos, and on a good day probably the best view in Britain south of Loch Lomond.

On a wet day walk to the lifeboat station at Dinllaen via the pub, or if it's really grim go for brunch at Zinc in Abersoch.

Thanks, some good recommendations there. 

We took the boat to Bardsey day before yesterday, the only dry, sunny, day. It was stunning!

Whistling sands yesterday in the pouring rain.

Hoping to get to Porth Ysgo and the manganese mine nearby but so far it's torrential rain.

Thanks everyone! Made it to Porth Dinllaen yesterday in the blazing sun. 

Perfect spot for flight pad, and kids and a nice stroll in. 

Some quality problems too. Particularly enjoyed Crate arete, and Fatneck's arete 👍