UKC

Ruff Wood

For those that don't know, Ruff Wood is a previously quarried site behind Edge Hill Uni, its a bit green at the moment but had no recorded routes until about a week or two ago. There is quite a bit to go at. I have previously asked for any FA details but never received anything so I imagine the lines have been climbed before but no details recorded.

There is plenty to go at for people who can boulder better than I can (its not that hard!) 

If you do some new lines, add them into the database with a photo outlining your route and I will try and get them in some sort of order.

Enjoy.

In reply to SebCa:

I was at Edge Hill between 86 and 89. I was in Stanley Hall in 86/87 and we'd walk over there and clean stuff up and boulder about when we couldn't afford the bus fare to Pex or the train fare down to The Breck.

Did all the obvious walls and corners and I think the odd traverse.

We didn't record anything so enjoy doing the first ascents again.

Enty

In reply to Enty:

If you can remember any from the pics let me know and I shall of course credit you with them! Seems a bit of a p*ss take to claim the FA in 2018! But if I can get some sort of order going hopefully when the next round of books get printed it will get a bit more action...the only other local site is Parbold which is in an even more sorry state!

In reply to SebCa:

I lived 400m down the road until I was 13 or 14, and I had already started climbing then. Paget Pugh and I climbed a lot of problems, but we never recorded anything. I then moved to Aughton, but kept going back until I got a car aged 17 or 18 and started going to Pex Hill. That must have been back in 81 or 82.

BTW there is a quarry next to Aughton Green station that you could get into off the end of the platform. I seem to recall that we got a rope onto a hideously sandy arete and top-roped it. Leading it was out of  the question...

Steve

 

In reply to SebCa:

Hi Seb,

I climbed here back in the 90's when I was a kid - I remember it being really green & wet, apart from the hot summer of 1995 when we cleaned up a bunch of problems.  The back wall of the square cut bay was one that stuck in my mind.  I do have some photos somewhere, I'll have to dig them out one day!  We also used to cycle out to the old railway line nr Halsall and boulder on the railway bridges which was good fun too.

In reply to gimmer:

The ones on the cheshire lines?

In reply to gooberman-hill:

Hi Steve,

Do you mean Town Green or Aughton Park? Ive had a quick look on Google maps but can't quite work it out, is it north end or south end of the platform?

 

Thanks

In reply to SebCa:

Aughton Park - the station is in a cutting. If you go down onto the West side platform (trains to Ormskirk IIRC - but I haven't lived in the area for many years), then walk to the South (Liverpool) end of the platform, you could get off the end of the platform into the woods, which is actually a big old quarry. If you look on Google maps, you can see it as a wooded area.

In reply to gooberman-hill:

Brilliant thanks I shall try and get over and have a look!

In reply to SebCa:

Yes that was it.

In reply to SebCa:

I've done quite a bit of bouldering development at Parbold in the past 18 months as well as the odd bit of general litter clearing. I think there's a decent circuit for locals if the conditions are right. I did put a bit of info on the Lancs Rock Revival FB page and on UKC logbook. 

In reply to Bolehillbilly:

Keep up the good fight! It does seem to be sprouting bolts occasionally. You never know, due to the condition of the rock it may be for the best....dons tin hat...

In reply to SebCa:

Just for the record - Dave Jones took me there in 1974 when we were both at Edge Hill (me only briefly!) and he pointed out a few lines that he had done, I think we may have even climbed a few.

For some reason it didn't inspire me, and that was speaking as someone who had come from Malvern... I must look the place up again though.

In reply to SebCa:

Not sure what you mean about Parbold? The rock seems pretty solid - at least in the bouldering areas. It can get a bit dark and gloomy in there due to all the tree cover, but there is some decent climbing.

Well done on the Ruff Woods revival!

In reply to robin mueller:

Thanks Robin I must confess that was a lul to try and get the thread some popularity/discussion but it didn't work  

The only new bolt I have spotted recently was on Worthwhile past time but sad ambition.

Im sure Ruff Wood would welcome a visit from yourself to give it a proper assessment and maybe make the annex pages of the Lancs Bouldering

Far left, the Wiggin end is a bit loose so beware if you venture that end.

In reply to SebCa:

Here’s a couple of photos from 1974 of some climbing action at Ruff Wood in what we knew as “The Box”

https://photos.app.goo.gl/nSj86jrJYZCheKiH8

As you can see there was a point of aid used on “The Crack”  and eliminated soon after. “The Mantleshelf” was a bit of a tough cookie too

I think they may have been done before...

In reply to Hammy:

I will try and get over tomorrow and have a go at both and report back. Thanks for the pictures!

Interestingly we have had another visiter who has named some routes so keep them coming. The more the merrier. 

In reply to SebCa: Climbed here lunchtimes in 1974/75 when I worked in Ormskirk. Nice little bouldering venue. If you have a topo/ details of problems I could publicise it on Friends of Pex Hill Facebook group.

 

In reply to Pekkie:

All we have recorded at the moment is whats on UKC and the pictures associated with the routes, as and when it gains a bit of momentum then hopefully get something on paper

In reply to SebCa:

Enjoy? This alongside This place, alongside Lumbutts quarry, must be a contender for one of Lancashire's worst climbing venues.  Rarely dry, the place is popular  with the denizens of the fido cult and consequently large amounts of dog shit litter the quarry floor aking it a great venue for your children to contract toxicariasis

In reply to Sandstonier:

You sell it so well.

Seems like it is proving enjoyable for a few people though. I'm sure if it was more local to me I'd have made the most of it. Looks like some gardening of the topouts might be needed - perhaps that's why it is often wet?

I quite like Lumbutts. There is some good bouldering on the pinnacle, and on nearby boulders. Haven't tried any of the routes. I'm sure there are better contenders for worst climbing venue...

 

 

 

 

In reply to robin mueller:

Went there in the summers after 6 weeks of drought: virtually every hold was covered in grease. On reflection, Lumbutts, with its fine views over Calderdale, is not as bad as this place. There at  least four other reasonable venues within a 5 miles radius of Ormskirk. Due to sensitivity, they must remain secret for now.

In reply to Sandstonier:

Could have been a high humidity day? I had that problem at a few crags this summer. Dry in previous weeks, then suddenly smeggy damp, despite a lack of rain.

Interesting that there are some other decent venues. Are they likely to remain secret forever?

 

In reply to robin mueller:

Access issues I'm afraid. OK, possibly a bad move here. You might try Pinfold Quarry, between Ormskirk and Halsall, near the old water tower. [not the ones in Ormskirk]. Very difficult to gain access to this one as there is a twelve  foot wall barring entry. The locals are pretty friendly, they'll let you in through their gardens if they like the look of you. Don't take any f-cking dogs. DON'T CHANGE ETC in PUBLIC VIEW. Be absolutely discrete. don't do ANYTHING in public to offend other peoples sensibilities. Haven't been there for a while. Hard, fingery bouldering on good quality sandstone.: https://democracy.westlancs.gov.uk/Data/Planning%20Committee/200703151930/A...

 

In reply to Sandstonier:

Albion,

I am aware of this quarry and the sensitive nature surrounding it. I may well be worth addressing with the BMC access team to see what can be done as reading the document you posted the quarry is owned by UU and as per other local venues they are reasonably pro climbing. 

 

Kind Regards

In reply to SebCa:

Hi, yes. The quarry was frequented by a small number of climbers in the eighties who decided that information concerning the place would be restricted to a small number of people who could be trusted not to trash the place. It's not just issues relating to noise, parking litter etc. The quarry is home to rare insects and large colonies of fearsome ants who sometimes become problematic for the people living nearby. The place could not be subjected to the kind of obsessive  compulsive cleaning that goes on quarries like Pexhill. Too much disturbance to habits. Unlike you however I've no confidence that the BMC could come up with some kind of access agreement. Best wishes, les

In reply to Sandstonier:

Shockingly I am still awaiting a reply from them....

In reply to SebCa:

Who did you contact at the BMC.? Les Ainsworth  has been the local BMC guidebook committee rep for decades and editor of the local BMC guidebooks and all round local access hero  (I'm really hoping Albion is another Les but given the local knowledge I'm worried he is not).  Worst case the central access team might be best, you can use the BMC access page links of email rob dyer the office for England direct: robd@thebmc.co.uk

In reply to Sandstonier:

Sounds intriguing. Also, what rare insects? I'm always fascinated by unusual wildlife...

In reply to robin mueller:

A friend from Aughton studying biology identified them when we were bouldering there in the eighties. She told me there names but I've forgotten. Probably similar to the species that once inhabited Whiston quarry near Liverpool.  There presence didn't  stop the local council giving  planning permission for it to be used as a landfill site. As they say, a hole in the ground is worth a lot of money.