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Shoe recommendation for gritstone bouldering

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 planetmarshall 19 Dec 2023

I'm aware this is likely to be pretty subjective, just wondering what type of shoe people would recommend for Grit in the low to mid 6s, aspiring to low 7s.

Have been using my goto indoor shoe which is a Scarpa Instinct VS, but it feels a bit stiff and aggressive.

Don't really get on with the Unparallel fit, and my original Pinks are showing their age.

 C Witter 19 Dec 2023
In reply to planetmarshall:

They are narrow in the toe box, but the Tenaya Oasi is brilliant. Pointy toe, good if not excellent heel, comfy, sensitive, slightly downturned but not bananas. Found them great for natural grit 5s to 7a, smearing and edging, slabs, walls and gently overhanging to somewhat steep, but not anything outrageously steep. Probably my favourite shoe for the job so far, as well as great indoors.

p.s. got a pair of the Vapour S recently, but actually significantly prefer the Oasi.

Post edited at 11:11
 Arms Cliff 19 Dec 2023
In reply to planetmarshall:

If you get on with Scarpa fit, then Drago might be a good option for when your Vapour are too stiff

 midgen 19 Dec 2023
In reply to planetmarshall:

Converted to Tenaya Masai for grit this year. Love em. Stick like glue and super precise for getting right into those non-existent grit foot placements.

I'll be trying the rest of the range when I next need new shoes to find something that works as well, but has a decent toe patch. 

 slawrence1001 19 Dec 2023
In reply to midgen:

+1 For Masai's. 

I will say my Masai's developed a hole after about 3 months, though this may have been due to them being two sizes too big

 ChrisBrooke 19 Dec 2023
In reply to planetmarshall:

I do a fair bit of grit bouldering and my regular shoe is the Tenaya Iati. Sticky, precise, good on edges and smears and crucially for me: comfortable. I can size down and still keep them on for long sessions. If I need to specialise for a heel hook, or need more edging power I’ll vary it.   I use the Mastia for some problems, and unparallel up rise pro for others, but the Iati covers me for 90% of things. 
Usual caveats about whatever actually fits your foot shape etc…

 ebdon 19 Dec 2023
In reply to planetmarshall:

Scarpa instinct vsr 

That is all you need to know.

3
 SDM 19 Dec 2023
In reply to planetmarshall:

If the Instinct VS fit you well, Tenayas won't. They are at opposite ends of the foot shape spectrum.

The obvious answer is the Instinct VSR: same fit as the VS, but softer rubber. It isn't less aggressive than the VS though. The VSR is somewhere in the middle between a stiff and a soft shoe.

Dragos and Furias are a lot softer than the VSR, which in effect makes them flatten out under load and become less aggressive, but they are also a narrower fit.

1
 galpinos 19 Dec 2023
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

>   and unparallel up rise pro for others

What do you use the up rise pro for?

 slawrence1001 19 Dec 2023
In reply to galpinos:

I'm assuming cracks

 ChrisBrooke 19 Dec 2023
In reply to galpinos:

Actually for edges and sometimes heels. It's a closer heel fit for me, so it's a toss-up between that and the Mastia for hooking. I'll usually try both. And it's by far my stiffest shoe, so for edges - e.g. Green Death Start. Perfect when you want more support and can deal with less sensitivity. I can stand on micro edges for longer but balance that against getting less warning that it's about to ping off.

 galpinos 19 Dec 2023
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Thanks.

 ArnoldTheBat 19 Dec 2023
In reply to planetmarshall:

FWIW I find the Scarpa Instinct VS pretty good on the grit (boulder problems up to 7b). 

They're kinda an inbetweeny shoe, as already mentioned, which given the variety in grit seems to work well.

Tempted by the VSRs but worried might be a bit spendy (wearing out quicker).

 DaveHK 19 Dec 2023
In reply to SDM:

> If the Instinct VS fit you well, Tenayas won't. They are at opposite ends of the foot shape spectrum.

What sort of fit do the Masais have? I used them years ago and from memory they were narrow but that could well have changed.

 slawrence1001 20 Dec 2023
In reply to DaveHK:

They're narrow but expand really easily. Tenaya have some fancy name for it but I can't be arsed to find it. They're definitely one of the more forgiving shoes for fit I've worn. I have quite wide feet and while they felt a little tight to begin with they quickly adapted.

1
 wbo2 20 Dec 2023
In reply to planetmarshall:

VSR's are the obvious option, but I prefer the Instinct S slipper as I like the toe box so much.  Adequately stiff as well for some edging as well

 Aled Williams 21 Dec 2023
In reply to planetmarshall:

The new Scarpa Vapour slippers are amazing for grit!

 C Witter 21 Dec 2023
In reply to Aled Williams:

I like them, but the toebox feels quite blunt, e.g. for getting your toe in little pockets or thin seams 🤔


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