UKC

I'm new to climbing outdoors and want to get started as soon as possible this year.

Based in London so Southern Sandstone seems to be the most easily accessible.

I'm aware that sandstone shouldn't be climbed if wet but unsure how to determine when conditions are good, is it enough to just check weather reports for a good period where it hasn't rained? e.g if it's been three days without rain it'll be ok, or is there more to consider?

Southern sandstone needs to be really dry to ensure that you're not going to damage it.  3 days probably isn't enough at this time of year.

Give Bowles a ring, they're usually pretty helpful and honest about the state of the rock: https://bowles.rocks

Kudos to you for being considerate about the rock and not just turning up and climbing on it

Thank you for the link, i'll contact them before i head out.

I'd be surprised if there wasn't a local Facebook group that keeps an eye on conditions. Have a look on there. 

I haven't been there recently but I live in Sussex. The countryside is saturated from weeks of heavy rain, and it's going to take more than a few weeks to dry out properly, certainly more than 3 days, so my gut feeling is that the condition of the rocks is most unlikely to be suitable. It's been the same at this time of the year for the last decade or so, even longer. Whilst the surface may appear to be dry the underlying rock takes a long time to dry and remains vulnerable.

Before I started climbing properly, my ex got me a climbing lesson at Bowles for my birthday with one of their instructors in January. They didn't have any qualms about me pedalling my way up very wet rock. At the time neither myself or the person who got me the gift had any clue that it would be bad for the rock but now it seems a bit 'off' to be offering climbing lessons through the depths of winter there. 

Had a look at the Bowles site and it seems like they don't offer any climbing courses until march, I guess that's a good indicator of the conditions this time of year.

From looking into it some more and seeing how easily sandstone can be damaged, I'm thinking it's probably not worth the risk.

Will have to look further afield,  maybe a few days up in the Peak district instead.

I used to live in South London before moving up North. Peak District and Dorset aren't too bad to get to for the day if you don't mind driving. 

Southern sandstone is good fun but there's a whole world of better stuff not too far away  

No car unfortunately, And train fares up to Sheffield can be pretty steep compared to getting down to Tunbridge wells, not so bad if i go up for a few days though i guess.

What wall do you climb at? There will defo be a group of regulars who head out on the weekends. 

Have been climbing at The Castle the past few months, will have to start asking around.

I've also seen these so called "instructors" taking parties on very wet rock particularly at Harrisons. Setting a dreadful example for the sake of earning a quick buck. They should be ashamed, and are a disgrace to their profession.

I questioned a group climbing Niblick in very wet conditions recently, they told me that the BMC guidance leaflet doesn't mention anything about not climbing on sandstone when wet. I checked when i got home and found that the best practice leaflet actually recommends sticking to the chimneys and cracks when the rock is wet. I was really surprised by this, i can't think of many crack routes which don't rely on foot/hand holds off to the side at some point. With routes like Niblick looking so worn, climbing in them in the wet can't be helping much.

This was actually through the owners of Bowles though, I think. It sounds like they may have changed that now but I'm almost certain it was late Jan/early Feb (my birthday is end of January). Either way, it was very cold and damp. 

Last year, I was organizing a course for me and my friends in Bowles, so I gave Bowles a call asking about potential rain (forcasts were looking bad). They said rain was not a problem and the course wouldn't be canceled. We were lucky on that day as rock wasn't too wet and no rain at all but looking back, I would rather cancel or move session but probably lose paid money.

We went to Bowles last Saturday and the rock was good to climb (not everything). It was sunny and cold day and we didn't climb anything that looked and felt wet for both reasons - damaging the rock and rather unpleasant climb. This Friday we are going to Harrison's. If no go, we have always a backup plan - indoor gym in Tunbridge Wells which isn't too far. Either way, we gonna climb something