/ V grades / Font grades on UKC
Has there been a change from V grades or have I not been paying attention?
I think you can set it in options on your profile to give you either as required...
> I think you can set it in options on your profile to give you either as required...
Thanks a useful function, I did not realise you could do that.
As there are more Font levels than V grades, for this option to work, some new V grades must have been created. Indeed when I check this is the case, eg V3+, V4+, V5+ have recently started appearing.
Normally grades inspire much discussion, it is surprising that these new grades have not been noticed, either that or few are interested.
I'd not noticed those "plus" grades. I'd guess V grades have fallen out of favour with most UKC users who have a serious intrest in bouldering. Most UK guide books seem to have abandonded V grades. Suprising really that there are still some walls grading with V grades...
walls tend to grade using V grades because it is more intuitive for beginners and not confuse-able with French grades (which font can be).
This doesn't mean it's right however, we all know it's absolutely wrong.
In a perfect crystal clear world we would have one grade per system for each boulder, e.g. "Jerry's Roof - f7C tech6c V9"
Even better for pumpy traverses where you can have five, so "Powerband - f7C tech6b V9 F8a T8a"
But I can dream...
What's T8a, I've missed that one
> In a perfect crystal clear world we would have one grade per system for each boulder
I read that as "In a perfect world we would have one grade system for each boulder" which has great potential to avoid/create arguments. Especially if we have one conversion table per climber...
If you click on the Gear icon on the top right of the My Logbook page you can choose your preference for the default bouldering grade system. I did create a few extra V grades for this to work properly though.
Traverse grade, usually appears without the T, leaving people wondering whether they are looking at the sport grade or not, which is the beauty of it cos it floats around font grading without being font grading and looking like a sport grade. It's a rare one to use indeed but I feel it should re-emerge along with peak bouldering grades.
>It's a rare one to use indeed but I feel it should re-emerge along with peak bouldering grades.
As in B grades?
Aye, for some old school flavour
I would say that in the US the V2 to V4 problems at places like flagstaff..Fort collins...hueco..and red rocks are more equivalent to the V3+..V4+ etc you suggest. Harder probs are V5..6 etc
Dan Varian recently made the third ascent of Transcendence E8 6c, one of Northumberland's proudest and most fearsome routes, which has resisted attempts by some of the country's finest climbers for twenty five years.