/ V grades / Font grades on UKC

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MikeYouCanClimb - on 09 Mar 2019

Has there been a change from V grades or have I not been paying attention?

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JLS on 09 Mar 2019
In reply to MikeYouCanClimb:

I think you can set it in options on your profile to give you either as required...

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MikeYouCanClimb - on 11 Mar 2019
In reply to JLS:

> I think you can set it in options on your profile to give you either as required...

Thanks a useful function, I did not realise you could do that.

As there are more Font levels than V grades, for this option to work, some new V grades must have been created. Indeed when I check this is the case, eg V3+, V4+, V5+ have recently started appearing.

Normally grades inspire much discussion, it is surprising that these new grades have not been noticed, either that or few are interested.

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JLS on 11 Mar 2019
In reply to MikeYouCanClimb:

I'd not noticed those "plus" grades. I'd guess V grades have fallen out of favour with most UKC users who have a serious intrest in bouldering. Most UK guide books seem to have abandonded V grades.  Suprising really that there are still some walls grading with V grades...

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AMorris - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to JLS:

walls tend to grade using V grades because it is more intuitive for beginners and not confuse-able with French grades (which font can be).

This doesn't mean it's right however, we all know it's absolutely wrong.

In a perfect crystal clear world we would have one grade per system for each boulder, e.g. "Jerry's Roof - f7C tech6c V9"
Even better for pumpy traverses where you can have five, so "Powerband - f7C tech6b V9 F8a T8a"

But I can dream...

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Michael Hood - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to AMorris:

What's T8a, I've missed that one

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tlouth7 on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to AMorris:

> In a perfect crystal clear world we would have one grade per system for each boulder

I read that as "In a perfect world we would have one grade system for each boulder" which has great potential to avoid/create arguments. Especially if we have one conversion table per climber...

Post edited at 14:31
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In reply to MikeYouCanClimb:

If you click on the Gear icon on the top right of the My Logbook page you can choose your preference for the default bouldering grade system. I did create a few extra V grades for this to work properly though.

Font V-grades
f2 VE
f2+ VM
f3 VB
f3+ V0-
f4 V0
f4+ V0+
f5 V1
f5+ V2
f6A V3
f6A+ V3+
f6B V4
f6B+ V4+
f6C V5
f6C+ V5+
f7A V6
f7A+ V7
f7B V8
f7B+ V8+
f7C V9
f7C+ V10
f8A V11
f8A+ V12
f8B V13
f8B+ V14
f8C V15
f8C+ V16
f9A V17
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AMorris - on 15:44 Fri
In reply to Michael Hood:

Traverse grade, usually appears without the T, leaving people wondering whether they are looking at the sport grade or not, which is the beauty of it cos it floats around font grading without being font grading and looking like a sport grade. It's a rare one to use indeed but I feel it should re-emerge along with peak bouldering grades.

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In reply to AMorris:

>It's a rare one to use indeed but I feel it should re-emerge along with peak bouldering grades.

As in B grades?

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AMorris - on 16:16 Fri
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

Aye, for some old school flavour

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racodemisa - on 16:35 Fri
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

I would say that in the US the  V2 to V4 problems at places like flagstaff..Fort collins...hueco..and red rocks are more equivalent to the V3+..V4+ etc  you suggest. Harder probs are V5..6 etc

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