UKC

What is the situation at the ERF rocks (aka Wickenstones)? I heard that there was a bit of a problem recently and wondered if climberes are still welcome.

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In reply to Duncan Bourne:

BMC Regional Access Database (RAD)

http://thebmc.co.uk/outdoor/rad/rad.asp

Guy Keating
Guy takes care of all the regional access issues and initiatives, together with a nationwide network of volunteers.

0161 438 3309

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Cheers

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

I understand from Dave Bishop that relations with the farmer are at a bit of a low at the moment and that there is no access (at least across his fields). Efforts are being made to sort it out.

In reply to Dave Garnett:
I heard you can get to erf rocks from behind...?
maybe?
Would love to know the decent places to climb near there.
Can you help me out duncan?
What is best, rock end?
erf?
knypersley rocks - seems a bit green?
cheers
Duane

In reply to Duane:

There is currently no access to this venue.
RAD, 19/04/07 states: The owner has banned climbing and does not wish to meet with us to discuss this. For the time being there is nothing further we can do. If any progress can be made in the next few months we will keep you informed. The crag is visible from the owner's farm. You could try asking for permission and let us know how you get on.

In reply to TN:
i am struggling simply finding said farm etc, and proper access for rock end?
how do you get to it?
cheers anyone

In reply to Duane:

Classically you went in from behind the factory and direct across the field to it. This is one of the main reasons access has been banned. He didn't like people parking outside his house, jumping over his fences and climbing on his land.

The owner doesn't live nearby, but his son does and it is he who will ask you to leave, on his fathers behalf. Please respect this as we try to come to some arrangement, although it looks bleak.

Cheers,

Andi

In reply to Duncan Bourne: Not a problem, is there anything i can do, as i live quite close.
Take him choccy / beer?

In reply to andi turner:

Have you spoken to them recently Andi? Is there anything I can do? I am getting the distinct impression that we haven't got to the bottom of the real objection here, since the complaint seems different on every occasion. The parking issue seems pretty bogus to me (there is loads of room, it isn't exactly Stanage numbers we're talking about, and I would be surprised if the farmer owned the access road to the factory anyway). I can completely understand concerns about walls and fences, but we could easily sort something out about that. Unfortunately, the whole Wickenstones /Rock End area, with the honorable exception of the people who live right next to Garden Buttress (who arguably have the best case to be uncooperative), has something of a history of the 'get orf moi laand!" school of countryside stewardship.

It would be interesting to know what the boundaries of the relevant landowners were. For instance, does this guy actually own the rocks and the land behind, or just the field in front? There is certainly scope for a more discreet approach from the footpath opposite the stone mason's place, but it's true that anyone on the crag is clearly visible from the farmhouse.

..............what, no demands for an "up yours" mass trespass?

Slipping....

Sxx

In reply to Duane:

His son lives near, the owner doesn't so not sure how good choc and beer will be. I'm in the middle of some correspondence at the moment, looking bleak though. I really want this place to be opened again, it was a great little spot.

After all is said and done, he has nothing to gain from letting us on his land! Unless you know of something I could offer.

Andi

In reply to andi turner:
Where are we talking of here?
erf rocks/ rock end.?
i am not sure i know where one starts ands the other ends?

Going up park lane just before the housesand the fork in the road, is there something there?

About 50 yards further on, IN somebodies quiet nice back garden, quiet a monstrosity ther, looks good.?

Then further round past a farm, over into a dip in the road, some rather large rocks on the left in the middle of some fields 'up' an access road, that looks out over Biddulph?

Further up the bank near the factory - havent sen anything over there at all?

I am well confused, what can we climb on, what can't we and how do you get to the stuff we can climb on?

Thanks

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

This is the database map.
http://www.streetmap.co.uk/newmap.srf?x=389850&y=357050&z=3&sv=...

Try and guide me.

In reply to Duane:

Until recently we could climb on the outcrops at each end of the line of crags you describe; ie Garden Buttress at the left end (Knypersley end of the village), and ERF Rocks near the factory at the other (Biddulph Moor end). The obvious bits in the middle have been out of bounds for ages, unfortunately, although I'm not aware of any recent contacts.

It's all clear in the guidebook (I hope).

In reply to Duane:

I don't have a mapo with me and it's been a little while since I wa there, but I think the arrow on the linked map points at one of the banned bits in the middle. I think ERF Rocks are not marked, but are just above where it says Robin Hill (but on the left side of the B road where the obvious no through road goes off). The square of mixed woodland is behind and left of the crag as you look at it from the road.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:
So garden buttress is climbable?

In reply to Duane:

Last I heard. Please be very polite to the residents, don't park outside their house (actually the only safe parking is a little way off, past the junction) and back down with good grace if they say no.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Go onto http://local.live.com this gives a very good aerial photograph (the best around as far as I'm concerned) by panning up and down you will see the section known as ERF rocks South West of a factory car park and immediately east of a wooded area.

As dave already said: big bit in garden, has been allowed to be climbed, just be very polite, it's their garden and very close to their house, feels almost rude climbing there. This peters out into a horse field, no climbing allowed here. Further on, over the brow on the left is a bigger buttress in a field: this is ERF/Wicken Stones/Thingy Farm Rocks.

Andi

In reply to andi turner:
So would you prefer other people to keep asking or leave it just to yourself?
(polite diplomacy is obviously always best.)

In reply to Duane:

It's the Peak Area meeting tomorrow at the Roaches in the Don Whillans memorial hut. It'll be discussed there, you're welcome to come along.

You could keep asking, but it's not his land!

I'll keep you posted how things develop.

Andi

In reply to Duncan Bourne:
Would of liked to come to both, this evening and aturdays event. Forgot this week was even on the calender.
DOH!
Please keep me posted, as it would be very handy to climb there, but i dont want to ruin any diplomatic proceedings underway.

Cheers