UKC

Kilnsey Crag...please, please....Increased number of climbers are producing problems, mostly inconsiderate parking, blocking farm access, using grass verges and on double yellow lines. The farmer is also showing concerns about the number of quick-draws left in routes ...always a difficult one when you are working your project..but if some could be removed that would help.
This crag is world class and would be a disaster if restrictions came into force...there is parking further up the road about 400 metres or so...not a big walk if it helps the situation here. Dogs should also be on a lead at this time of year.
Please read the access update Kilnsey Crag www.thebmc.co.uk
Nigel Baker BMC Limestone rep.

In reply to nigel baker:

Thanks for reminding us all. I've been wandering what the score was the last few weekends, it is so busy and cars everywhere. There are two places that I'm not quite clear whether you can park or not. One is by the wooden gate right opposite the crag, there's space for one car without obstructing the gate for the farmer, I assume this is out? And then the shallow layby a few meters south, space for two or three cars, is that a parking space or a passing place? I'm never quite sure. I know when in doubt you should head up to the big layby parking further up the road, which is what we'll do next time, but it would be good to know a bit more detail. Thanks

In reply to Ramon Marin:

I think the safest thing to is, if you are not sure don't park there, try somewhere else. The gate area has always been a bit sensitive as the farmer does bring bigger loads round and he wants the space. I think the places you have mentioned have been ok when a couple of teams have turned up, but this year Kilnsey appears to be the destination of choice!!

In reply to nigel baker:

Does this include the section of verge the on the crag side of the road immediately where the path heads up to the left hand end of the crag. I would class that as a verge, but there was about 10 cars there yesterday..? Cheers Ed

In reply to Ed Booth:

Yes, don't park there.

In reply to Ed Booth:


This is exactly what we are on about....10 cars!!! What verge, I think you are on the road and opposite the farmers gates....

In reply to nigel baker:

Bump - ahead of the weekend. If heading to Kilnsey, please be sure to park considerately and only in appropriate places. If in any doubt, please park further afield and make the 5-minute walk.

In reply to Nige M:

I wonder if the farmer might be open to the idea - perhaps BMC sponsored - of closing the southern parking but providing a permissive path through a field up to the ladder stile at the North end of the crag.

In reply to nigel baker:

Yes, thanks for the much-needed reminder, Nigel.

I was at Kilnsey on Sunday and someone was parked right across a farm gate.

If driver is reading this... get a grip! Presumably you'll put LOADS of effort into a route you are projecting or trying to onsight or whatever, so why not put a TINY bit of effort into walking a few metres more so you don't jeopardise access for the rest of us.

In reply to climberchristy:

Is it worth making a plea to someone so stupid?

In reply to climberchristy:




Just to confirm this was across the gate? There is space for two cars parked front in to the left of the gate which I understood the farmer is happy about

In reply to ukb shark:

Car was side on right across the gate.

In reply to Offwidth:
Probably not but I felt better for having a rant, albeit an online one to no-one!!

In reply to climberchristy:


Thanks for clarifying that. Are you sure it was a climbers car though? Not being arsey - there have been a few occasions recently where climbers have been quick to point the finger at other climbers and this becomes "fact" when it was actually unclear that there was a fault or even that it was climbers involved.

In reply to ukb shark:

Have you considered putting an authoritative-looking sign on the gate, maybe with an outline diagram of where's ok? We're putting signs at a couple of the contentious Northumberland spots - with the landowners consent. The BMC are footing the bill IIRC. Landowners like the idea, it's good for relations.

You may already have one of course, and the selfish dickheads are just ignoring it.

In reply to ukb shark:

First you wanted me to confirm if car was actually 'across the gate' even though in my first post I wrote that it was 'across' the gate. Now you are using the phrase 'unclear if there was a fault'. I know this was in reference to other recent situations but the implication is that maybe I've got it wrong again.yet in this case there clearly was a fault because the car was across the gate. Yet you are claiming you are 'not being arsey'?

As for whether I can be 'sure' it was a climber's car? Of course I can't be 100% certain from just looking at a vehicle as I drive past. But what are the chances? Parked right under Kilnsey, I'd say its highly likely it belongs to a climber. Doesn't change the fact that its still irresponsible parking anyway.

In reply to climberchristy:

It's also maybe the fact that there is a gate that the farmer is happy for people to park in front of. The double gates directly opposite the nearest stepping stones. The left side has been used as long as I can remember. Was that where the car was?

If this is no longer the case then someone please let me know.

I still feel asking people to park considerately isn't good enough. There are now signs up saying that but everyone's idea of considerate is different. If those signs had a sketch on showing where is and isn't allowed and where the alternative parking is that would be definitive. 4cars max on the verge, 3 in the lay by and 2 at the gates?

In reply to biscuit:

Sorry but to be honest I don't recall exactly which gate it was parked across. It was my first time at Kilnsey (always been a trad climber except sunny sport abroad until this season). My partner drove past as it was obviously full near the farm. I just remember seeing car sideways across a farm gate and thinking 'surely that shouldn't be parked there'. As I dont know Kilnsey well I couldn't even tell you how many gates there are.

In reply to climberchristy:

Cast your mind back. Are you sure you were at Kilnsey not Stanage?

In reply to ukb shark:

Hilarious! Further evidence that you are indeed 'arsey'.

In reply to climberchristy:

The defence rests

In reply to climberchristy:

I think the issue shark is attempting to make (not that i need to speak for him) is you may well have mistaken a car parked legitimately (there is a gate you can park in front of - or at least you could, i'm not sure anymore) for someone being an idiot and then raged about it online.

However to me the important part is that this shows how confusing the parking can actually be there, expecially for those who are not regulars. As such asking for considerate parking isn't going to solve the problem in my eyes.

In reply to biscuit:

It's not confusing, there's parking half a mile up the road and not much further back down the road. But some climbers are tw*ts and apparently can't cope with a 10 minute walk.

In reply to climberchristy:

So you drove past and saw a car parked across an unspecified gate. You don't know if it was a climber but you choose to believe to. You don't know how long it had been parked there or for how long it would continue to be parked there cos you drove on by. No one else at a full crag has piped up to say - yes I saw that - they were there all day - or sorry that was me guv. Could it be that it was a tourist that had temporarily pulled over to have a view? Or a piss? Or to make a call? Could it be that a climber had seen there was a lack of parking and had pulled over so they could turn around?. Who knows - it could have been the farmer who had pulled in. I don't know either but frankly neither do you as things stand. You'd rather jump to conclusions. Why does this matter? Because it is this sort of thing that becomes "a fact" that may be used when non-climbers are building a case for one thing or another against climbers. Asking for clarification shouldn't be a sin when that sort of thing is at stake.

In reply to ukb shark:
I thought you said 'the defence rests'? Now you're back with more waffle proving you don't read earlier posts. I made it clear earlier that car was unattended hence clearly not someone making a call or having a piss or turning around, blah, blah. So stop being so ridiculous.

So back to common sense...the very high likelihood is that it was a climber. I added my first post in support of OP who was giving a timely reminder about sensitive parking. My use of the lots of effort vs little effort idea was designed to raise a general point that climbers often try hard at climbing but can get lazy about walk-ins. It seemed popular judging by its 'likes'. Only you seem to be so deeply concerned by it.

This will be my last post on this thread as I'm tired of this tedious debate.

Climbers generally are decent people but as Sir Chasm points out above, like with all social groups, some aren't. However, if you want to carry on defending the climbers' honour, you go for it! I'm off climbing!

In reply to climberchristy:

This thread is hilarious. Squabbling about f**k all. Ukb shark is having a laugh....