UKC

Hi folks
It appears that after many years of not having any birds nesting on these cliffs, that razorbills have returned in large numbers to the faces right of Diedre Sud. The situation is not yet confirmed but if they are there, then any climbing on the routes (inc. Heart of Darkness/ New Morning, etc) to the right of Diedre Sud would be catastrophic to these legally protected species, especially at this time of year as they are likley to sitting on eggs right now.
It may be best to avoid the area this weekend until we can confirm the situation but it does seem very likley that climbing restrctions will be put in place for the routes Diedre Sud to the Black Cat on the west face.

Previously the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the then Countryside Council for Wales, all the seasonal restrictions were removed. However, as of June 2016 climbers should be aware that there appears to be a number of auks nesting on the crag in the 'Right Wall' area. Local climbers and conservation maangers are in the process of checking if restictions are necessary. In the meantime, please be prepared to change plans according to nesting sites that you might observe at the crag. Thank you for your cooperation.

Any updates will be on the BMC Regional Access Database https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=429


Thanks
Elfyn Jones
BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)

In reply to Elfyn Jones:

Thanks for the update Elfyn.

In reply to Elfyn Jones:

Went down and had a look at Mowing Word last weekend as we were considering Heart of Darkness (HVS 4c). Crag seemed to have a few birds (I thought they were Guillimots, so what do I know) sitting on nests easily visible from the abseil above Mowing Word. Obviosuly we decided to not climb.

In reply to Elfyn Jones:

I'm not surprised by this - the route Right Wall has had razorbills nesting on it for the past few years.

In reply to Elfyn Jones:

Please can you clarify if you can climb heart of darkness or heart of darkness new morning finish as the Rad datebase seems to suggest you can do the heart of darkness but finish up blowin' in the wind or snozwanger which surly would mean you cross the restricted area?

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

The info I have from our local BMC access rep at Pembs is that the birds are nesting on the very top break about 3m below the cliff top - so continuing the traverse of Heart of Darkness to the arête left of Diedre Sud should be ok as this is well below the nest areas. New Morning and the routes either side would take you directly through the nesting ledges and should be avoided.
Personally I'd probably wait until the end of July when the birds will have gone....(just think of all that fresh guano being dropped on your head from above as you continue along the traverse...!)

Elfyn