UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

70m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best HVS's in Britain. It is a bit like Dream of White Horses - no hard moves or bold bits, just mega holds and exposure. Best done in the afternoon to give the cave a chance to dry out. Start from the ledge, as described above.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb up the arete on the left to reach the line of breaks. Follow the breaks leftwards into the corner then step down. Continue traversing to a small ledge on the arete and belay.
2) 4c, 25m. Move left to a small corner then climb up to the belay ledge of Razorbill. Move left again then drop slightly down and follow the breaks into Diedre Sud.
3) 4a, 15m. Finish up Diedre Sud. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin, J.Greenland 13/Aug/1971.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , HVS Adventures , UK Lonely Leads , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 101Pembroke Extremes , AMC Uni Ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , 2016 Targets , Orange Spot Pembroke , High Quality Adventure routes , Extreme Girdle , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , Beginners Pembroke , Traverses of trady radness , 2021 , HS-HVS adventures , Pembs Ticklist , Pembs Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The description on here for p2 is not very good; CC guide is good but topo doesn't show the downclimb off the belay really. From the first belay, climb down so your hands are about level with where your feet were. Then you traverse for a few meters until an obvious climb up a blocky section which is the belay for some other routes. Then you climb down again to re-join the traverse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The description on here for p2 is not very good; CC guide is good but topo doesn't show the downclimb off the belay really. From the first belay, climb down so your hands are about level with where your feet were. Then you traverse for a few meters until an obvious climb up a blocky section which is the belay for some other routes. Then you climb down again to re-join the traverse.
derekm 4 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Wow!!! Just as good to second as to lead, never hard just utterly gripping.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wow!!! Just as good to second as to lead, never hard just utterly gripping.
Reds 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Truly a great 'experience' - I seconded it and it was scary - not at all like seconding your average HVS!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Truly a great 'experience' - I seconded it and it was scary - not at all like seconding your average HVS!

Logged Ascents

376 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Mowing Word

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 410 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 67
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Welcome to the Cruise

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)

Loading Notifications...