UKC

Alps and dolomites recomended guide books

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 psykx 23 Feb 2010
I'm looking to head out to either chamonix or the dolomites roughly in august next year, hopefully there will be a group of us some of whom would (myself included) like to be doing some classic high altitude routes in the alps and others who will only be wanting to climb multi pitch trad and sport.

can anybody recommend guide books? or the best time of year to go? or good sites on the net for info?
In reply to psykx: Dolomites: Classic Dolomite Climbs by Anette Kohelr and Norbert Memmel.
Chamonix: The Mont Blanc Range Topo Guide Volume 1 by Michel Piola for the rock and Snow, ice and mixed, the guide to the Mont-Blanc Range Vols 1 and 2 by Francois Damilano.

Then of course there are the guides produced by the Alpine Club to all areas.

Al
 Facewest.co.uk 23 Feb 2010
In reply to psykx:
For the Dolomites there're a few really good guidebooks, the Kohler & Memmel guide is great as are the guides by Mauro Bernadi to Val Gardena and the Cortina area (though these are in italian/german only, they have excellent topos and are asy to understand). I've not used the Versante Sud guides but I've only heard good things about them, someone on here strongly recommended the 50 classic routes guide (VIE E VICENDE IN DOLOMITI) a while back. I think it concentrates on slightly higher grades than the Kohler and Memmel though from memory.

For sport climbing the book Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo is in english german and italian and is really good if you're based in that area.
 Facewest.co.uk 23 Feb 2010
In reply to Facewest.co.uk: Oh and I wouldn't bother with the Alpine Club Dolomites guides
Removed User 23 Feb 2010
In reply to Facewest.co.uk:
> (In reply to psykx)
> For the Dolomites there're a few really good guidebooks, the Kohler & Memmel guide is great as are the guides by Mauro Bernadi to Val Gardena and the Cortina area (though these are in italian/german only, they have excellent topos and are asy to understand). I've not used the Versante Sud guides but I've only heard good things about them, someone on here strongly recommended the 50 classic routes guide (VIE E VICENDE IN DOLOMITI) a while back. I think it concentrates on slightly higher grades than the Kohler and Memmel though from memory.
>
> For sport climbing the book Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo is in english german and italian and is really good if you're based in that area.

Unless you are climbing v hard routes do not bother with VIE E VICENDE IN DOLOMITI. I climb up to UIAA grade VI in Dolomites and I don't think there was a single route in the book I could do!!!!

So if you want a copy cheap (unused!) let me know.

Some of them were UIAA Grade VIII if you pull on the gear!!!

Other recomendations are all excellent books.

Gary.
 Facewest.co.uk 23 Feb 2010
In reply to Removed User: Cheers for that, I hadn't realised the grades were that much of a step up.
Removed User 23 Feb 2010
In reply to Facewest.co.uk:

Agrees on the Alpine Club book, its looking old now, is a bit disjointed and using it just to find the routes, never mond climb them, can be a real adventure.

With the quality local guidebooks now avaliable and the time and money that would be required to re-do it, I assume the AC Dollies book will never be re worked?

Gary.
In reply to Facewest.co.uk: One of the problems with Alpine routes gradewise is that many of the old "easy" classic routes are of a style that is sometimes avoided these days i.e. wide cracks and chimneys and therefore feel difficult for the grade. I certainly found some of the "VS" routes a good grade harder in the Dolomites because I have tended to avoid this type of climbing in the last few years.

Al
Mark_21 23 Feb 2010
In reply to Removed User:

> Agrees on the Alpine Club book, its looking old now, is a bit disjointed and using it just to find the routes, never mond climb them, can be a real adventure.

The latest (2002) version is more recent than classic dolomites climbs! Are you maybe thinking of the older version (80s??) which I agree was fairly terrible.

The latest version is a pretty major reworking (split into two books) and has much more room for descriptions etc, and is a pretty good guide, in my opinion. Certainly worth having a copy if the 'classic dolomites climbs' routes are a bit busy, or you want a few more options for mountain routes.


 Null 23 Feb 2010
In reply to Facewest.co.uk:
> (In reply to psykx)
> the guides by Mauro Bernadi to Val Gardena and the Cortina area

He recently published another in the same series for the Catenaccio

 Null 23 Feb 2010

Other recent guides are Versante Sud for Marmolada and Tre Cime di Lavaredo both seem good (I have them but never used them) and available in English (or with English - don't remember).

The CAI guides are up to date for some areas, but you need good Italian to understand them
 Null 23 Feb 2010
In reply to psykx:
> dolomites roughly in august next year,
> can anybody recommend the best time of year to go?


August is very busy, normally with savage afternoon storms.
Same is true for July. June is still a bit snowy but OK for some routes.
September is much better on all counts. October is often good.
November normally sees the first snow but can be good.
New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...