/ Argyll - Scotland. Climbing locations/books/maps/info wanted

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saz_b - on 12 May 2009
There's a group of us heading out to Kilninver, Argyll in a couple of weeks for some walking/climbing etc and wanted to know if there were any climbing guidebooks out there for the area or nearby? We've only 3 or 4 days in the area.

I'm up for long mountain routes or short crags, with S/VS/HVS (maybe E1) kind of climbing.

Let me know if you have any books or magazines or personal recommendations of places to go!

Cheers, Saz
Mark Bull - on 13 May 2009
In reply to saz_b:

There's really very little worthwhile climbing in the immediate area. Your best option would be to head up to Glen Coe, Glen Nevis or Ben Nevis.

For a short visit, I would recommend a selected guidebook: either the SMC Scottish Rock Climbs, or Gary Latter's Scottish Rock (Vol 1).
Jamie B - on 13 May 2009
In reply to saz_b:

There's a crag at Knapdale that would give you a good day:

Further details (as well as The Cobbler and Glen Croe which are also within day-trip range) in the SMC Southern Highlands guide.
saz_b - on 18 May 2009
Thanks for the info there. I've just ordered the SMC Guide to the Southern Highlands, but have just realised that this *may* not have any info in it regarding climbs.

As a backup, I'd like to make a quick DIY topo if possible.

So used in conjunction with the guide to Knapdale here, and this picture can anyone help me make a topo for this crag? I don't want to shell out £22 on the scottish rock book, since I'm only visiting once and the weather isn't looking favorable either (and I'm not sure it will come on time either...)

glaramara - on 18 May 2009
In reply to saz_b: i'm 2 computer illiterate to draw lines on, but the obvious slabby ridge on the far left is moby dick, v. diff. if u use the corner 2 start that pitch is hvs. overgrown corner to right of this is trundle crack (?) severe. smack bang in centre of pic is the razors edge vs. excellent looking route with hard start. to the RH of the pic there is a large block leaning against the crag. go up that and the overgrown gully behind for a v. diff, better than it looks. the tremendous looking ridge to the right of that is the prow E1. well protected looking route.
about 20m RH of the pic are about 3 severe crack lines. excellent and well protected.
i am currently cleaning the crag up and working through routes, may have cleared an access track prior to u getting there, if ur lucky.
Richard Baynes - on 18 May 2009
In reply to glaramara: Hi Dave, good to see you're alive and well. Did you get out Sunday? I was out for a walk over your way...
And - I have a fair bit of knowledge/experience of the Ecrins, so giz a bell some time. Not sure I have the guidebook any more, but I can fill you in a bit.

saz_b - on 18 May 2009
In reply to glaramara: That's perfect info, thank for that!

The weather is forecast as drizzly I hope it clears up a bit. Does this crag suffer much seepage or quick drying? The route descriptions and pictures make it look like a great one day location.

If we're about and it's too wet to climb, I'd be happy to help set up ropes and clear it if you know what you're doing (I don't!)
glaramara - on 19 May 2009
In reply to saz_b: Aye, May has been a bit shite this year. quick drying, usually a good breeze, hardly any seeps. Midges haven't been a problem, ticks have. If u do climb ,wear long trousers and tuck ur sox over. Looks a bit silly but don't get Lymes disease. If you're knocking about and weather ok, me and mi mate can always arrange something 4 after work. 07761197243. if the weathers poor, and i've got my sycthe by then, i'll start hacking out a better approach. better than drinking i guess.... ;-) david
glaramara - on 19 May 2009
In reply to Richard Baynes: irritatingly enough the weather was great on sunday! no fishies took the bait though. went bouldering in glen lednock on the way home. great location.

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