UKC

was there on sunday, what a fantastic crag, did 'scar' and 'hades' clean (ish) but tried 'moria', jesus man, that's one tough route, or am i just being soft?

anyway, baildon, quarried grit, big long crack lines and a nice 'local' setting, anybody else fancy singing the praises of this gem of a crag?

In reply to rain dog...:

Moria, My first E2 lead, tough top where you barndoor out unless you get on with it. but yes, top crag all round and decent bouldering at the bottom. Next try Intrepid, lots of mono's and nice moves, maybe not on a lead though!

In reply to rain dog...:

Its a perfect contender for Lancashire Rock, good or bad? some good routes though - Saltaire E2 and a few in the big left quarry - Anne of Cleaves E3, Wasn`t too impressed on my visits when you compare it to the rest of Yorkshire Grit,
the best bit was seeing Ian Edwards emerging from a heavy session in a pub and back rope soloing one of his E5s - how he got up I don`t know.

In reply to rain dog...: Yup one of the best urban crags - can't recommend Joanna enough - classic VS - starts with a a jump to a fingerlock in a crack - brilliant!

In reply to Gabba: right then that'll be next time i go, i love crags like that, like a scruffy but lovable old dog, or a drunken unkle at a wedding, you kind of think you should stay clear, but end up talking to him anyway 'cos he's the most interesting person there.

bit 'moria' real grit, true grit.

In reply to rain dog...:

is there much there below VS?

In reply to craig h: fantastic, lol. we were gonna go and do 'ann' as it were but it started raining, the trip was made better by 'cream bun' john dunne who looked like he'd had about 15 pints the night before and preceded to take the piss out of me and me mate whilst we were on 'scar'....................... bless.

In reply to Clare:oh hello, yes there's a few classic severes i believe, you'd love it

In reply to Clare: and a two star mod as well

In reply to rain dog...:

might have to investigate... it sounds very much like Pex Hill in terms of its setting.

In reply to rain dog...:


er, cheers (!)

In reply to Clare:

Not quite overlooks a housing estate

In reply to Clare: right, never been to pex, but past nearby it last weekend....... it's just one of those big sprawling quarried urban crags, very well loved, definately worth a visit.

In reply to craig h:

oh okay, just sounds quite urban in a 'tripping over broken bottles and dodging local youth' kind of way...

In reply to rain dog...:

i know you passed nearby pex last weekend, you spanner.

In reply to Clare: wasn't suggesting anything, just thought it was amusing that there was a two star mod, some really nice lines though.

In reply to rain dog...: agreed about hades as well - quality route - feels quite "big" and there's also another one nearby - Epitath which worth doing - I can't remember which one, but I sduspect its hades has an amazing layback section at the top which is always in danger of swinging you off.

Intetresting top out though! and belaying off people garden fences is always fun!

Also - go for a walk along the top path down in the Anne of Cleves quarried bit - I haven't been there for 10 years+ and it was scary back then! - jumps across missing bits of path

You've got me going on a baildon ramble now - just remebered - next time you go, have a go at The Fin - twas graded traditional HVS in the old grit guide and is very interesting to climb

In reply to Clare:

sounds as if you`ve been there allready, it is worth a visit all being said.

In reply to rain dog...:

oh okay

In reply to Gabba: yeah i had a look at that quarry, will definately be turning up again soon.
fin? I'll have a look tonight in the bible, cheers mate

In reply to Gabba: oh and the scramble above 'hades' should warrant VS itself, jesus, I'll take a machete next time

In reply to Gabba:

There are no jumps required for people of average height on Joanna and its been HVS 5a for some time now.

In reply to Offwidth:

Crikey. The grade creep continues....

In reply to rain dog...:
Top crag, there always something on even if the weather's pants. great VS and below. Anyone done pillar or epitaph and not been smiling by the top? great routes, good pro. And the Glenn is just next door- Fantastic!
Shame I live so far away now (NZ)

In reply to exrawdon:

epitaph direct (over a bulge?) was my first ever lead

In reply to Offwidth: sorry - it was VS when I did it (old grit guide with almscliff route on cover) and still is on Mike's Hotpud site incidently, but I'll claim the HVS tick if that is what it is now! still a quality route though

In reply to craig h:

The route is actually called Satire, the guide discription says it make Higgar Tor look like a slab - it is steep and worth a visit for this one.