UKC

beginner in Swanage

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Rafael 03 Dec 2003
I´m going from Brazil to Swanage in april 2004 and I see that it´s a good place to climbing. I´d like some tips to learn more about rocks and indoor climbing in Swanage and how to meet climbers people there. I´m a little bit afraid because it´ll be my first time in UK and I´m beginner, so I must to meet cool people to pratice in UK.
 Lizard 03 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael:
www.rockfax.com/databases/results_area.html?id=6
 GrahamD 03 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael:

Are you based actually in Swanage ? It seems a long way to come for a quiet seaside town !
Rafael 03 Dec 2003
In reply to GrahamD:

I´m going to do an english language course in Swanage. I´m not gonna travel just for climbing. But i´d like so much to meet some climbers there.
Rafael 03 Dec 2003
In reply to Lizard:

Thanks for the link
 Al Evans 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael: Rafael, Swanage can be a serious place to learn climbing, try it with a guide or a club first, if you have done sport climbing before go to Portland, not far from Swanage and the best 'sport' venue in the UK. A 'safe' place to climb.
Stefan Lloyd 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael: You don't say what climbing you have done before, but if you have done some, I'd suggest you walk from Swanage to Durleston Country Park, which is not far from the town. From there, find the lighthouse (it is obvious). Next to it (on the right as you look out to sea) is one of the most popular climbing areas at Swanage ("Subluminal") - you are likely to see people on the ledge area from which they abseil or climb down to the routes. If you go on a sunny day at a weekend, there are bound to be a lot of people there, and with luck you will find someone to climb with.

If your previous climbing has been on bolts, you might prefer to go to one of the bolted areas. I'd suggest "Dancing Ledge", which is around 5kms walk around the coast from Swanage and easy to find. There is a quarry there by the sea with bolted climbs - again there are always people there on a good day at the weekend.

There are a lot of other places people climb at Swanage, but those are likely to be best to meet people.

You might also want to try talking to this club: http://www.southamptonrats.co.uk/

The area is beautiful and very "English" but also rather quiet - I hope you like it.
 GrahamD 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael:

Swanage is a place where climbers visit rather than it being a climbing centre so the 'scene' is not centred on the town of Swanage itself. Having said that, the areas mentioned above will be good for meeting people.

It really is a wonderful part of the country. Make sure you visit the Square and Compass pub nearby whilst you are there.
Rafael 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Al Evans:

Thanks! I appreciate your comments!
Rafael 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Stefan Lloyd:

Thanks! I appreciate your comments!
Rafael 04 Dec 2003
In reply to GrahamD:

Thanks! I appreciate your comments!

Is "square" a name of the pub or it´s only a square?
Hugh Pitcairn 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael:
You should look into Portland aswell as Swanage.
I live in dorset my self.
good luck.
HughP
 Al Evans 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael: The pubs name is The Square and Compass, its a tool used in navigating and mapping. The pub has a excellent fossil museum attatched and does about 5 types of different draft cider (yum) Also its in Worth Matravers not Swanage, but the village is only a few kilometers from Swanage and some of the Swanage climbs are actually approached from there!
 Mike Hall 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael: If that is you in your profile picture you don't look like much of a beginner?
 Bruce Hooker 04 Dec 2003
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Rafael) Rafael, Swanage can be a serious place to learn climbing, try it with a guide.... first,

Would that be a girl guide?
Rafael 05 Dec 2003
In reply to Mike Hall:

No, it´s not me in that pic. But I´ve uploaded 2 more photos of mine doing top rope.
 Rob Kennard 06 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael: I live about 20 km from Swanage and would be pleased to show you around when you get here.I am finishing University in Early May, so will have more time then.
Rafael 06 Dec 2003
In reply to Rob Kennard:

That´s nice man! Do you like climbing too?
What course have you made the grade?
Rafael 06 Dec 2003
In reply to Rob Kennard:

Ok. I saw your pictures. Is that you climbing?
 Rob Kennard 07 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael: Yeah, iVE GOT A FEW photos ON THE database. The great thing about the climbing in this area is that there is a good range of difficulty of climbs at every crag, so you can do easy climbs right next to hard things- so dont worry I wont put you on 8a straight away!Will you have a car? Swanage has quite a lot of climbing within walking distance but to get to Portland( the area with the best easy sport climbs)it is best to have transport. There are lots of different styles of climbing here- traditional climbing ,' adventure climbing', deep-water soloing, sport climbing and even a bit of bouldering, all within a beautiful area.
You can e-mail me directly through this forum (click on my name )
Roger Hill 07 Dec 2003
In reply to Rafael:

It is actually quite easy to get from Swanage to Portland without a car if you are going for the day, and really worth it as Portland can be fantastic. In summer the weather is usually reliable. I was there about nine times this year, and it was hot all except one time. Take the 142, 143, 144 bus (every hour, less frequently late at night) from Swanage to Wareham. take the train (every hour) from Wareham to Weymouth. take the 1 bus (every ten minutes) from Weymouth to Portland. You can walk to any crag on Portland from the bus route. The journey should take about two hours. Try this:-
http://www.dorsetcc.gov.uk/index.jsp?articleid=2501

or this:-

http://www.traveline.org.uk/

and go to 'Journey Planner' and make sure you choose Portland and Swanage in the county of Dorset, not some other place with the same name. Or you can choose 'Easton' which is the name of the village on the island of Portland.

If you do have access to a car, you will be able to get to Portland quicker, and it may be possible to go there in the evening in the summer.


If you want to see pictures of Portland on the UKC database, it seems you have to search on the name of the crag, not 'Portland'. Try searching on Blacknor North, Blacknor Central and Blacknor South (Blacknor South has some excellent routes for beginners).

Have a great time

Roger
Rafael 08 Dec 2003
In reply to Rob Kennard:

I can´t send you a email because a message says that it´s hidden.

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