UKC

Hello all 

I'm hoping you can help. 

My partner and I are off to Finale this week and could do with some crag recommendations that have easier routes on. I have the guide book but it's so vast it's difficult to know where to start. 

Essentially ive heard the grading is particularly stiff so we are after the most beautiful crags that have a good number of easier grades <f5c. At least initially untill we find our feet. 

Any info or advice would be hugely appreciated 

Thanks

Ben 

Was there earlier this year, amazing place with beautiful scenery and climbing as well as some great food!

In terms of easy crags, the main one I remember that was particularly good for lower grade routes was a crag called falesia del gorilla (think I got that right) but think it’s possibly not on the ukc database. Friendly bolting and grades from 5-6a+ish and not generally sandbagged.

Would also recommend the via ferata degli artisti if you’re able/have via ferata kit. Quite straight forwards, but fairly long for a via ferata with some stunning scenery.

The grading is quite mixed over there I found. Crags bolted pre 2000s tend to be pretty savage for the grade, but a lot of the newer crags are grades quite similar to uk sport. 
 

Hope that helps, and have a great time!

Ben

Hello Ben 

Thats for the response. Big help.

I have the finale climbing guide book but big question is where do you start.  With limited time I'm keen to maximise the time. 

Any particular food placed you recommend? 

Thanks again  

Ben

I'm also after some easier multi pitch stuff. 

If you have an recommendations for that, that would be awesome 

Didn’t actually do any of the multi pitches there unfortunately, would definitely do some of that if I went back. 
Tbh for food, anywhere in the town is good! Meals can be a bit pricey, but most places if you order a drink or two, you get pretty much a free meal with it. The cafe in the square by the museum seemed particularly good for this.

The guidebook is definitely chunky, so can be hard to choose where to go! Seem to remember there were also some easier coastal crags near the back of the guidebook that I remember some other folk going to and having a good time. Can’t remember what they were called though and don’t have the guide with me at the moment.

Thanks 

Thats a huge help 

Went a few weeks ago.

If you've got the girthy guide.

Page 492 is good. All rebolted over lockdown, great climbing. No 30 - Moi Lolita is the most insane overhanging 6b on buckets. Great fun! Also is predominantly in the shade!

The guy that wrote the guide works at the Salewa mountain shop in town and is super helpful for sending you to good places!! Also a very good gelato place nearby!!!

I agree it's really hard to find your way around, I wish there was a rockfax style top 50 or a stars system in the guidebook. Asking either the guy who works at Salewa or the guy who works in Outpost for recommendations is a good start.

I had a hard time enjoying Finale when climbing in the 5s there - lots of sandbags and low quality routes. I'd recommend spending a day a Casa del Vacche and having a go at Tempio Delle Clessidre, Klammeraffe, Citofonare Lily - they're all around 6a and much nicer (and probably easier) than most of the 5s I've groveled up in Finale. You'll probably get them in a couple of go's. It's recently bolted and not polished. 

Having said that about the 5s, Avoncorpo is really good - Vista Mare is pretty long and sustained at 5c but really nice. The crag has been rebolted in a more modern style so its reputation for spaced bolts is out of date now. 

In my experience, avoid Cordon Bleu and Valle Aquila on a first visit (though others might know of some decent sectors in there).

Guys thank you all got the response that's great. 

Will. X ref all these with the guide book later. 

It looks like we are going to be rained out the first day so will take a wonder and speak to the guy in the shop.

Thanks again