UKC

I am heading out to Austrailia in a couple of months and am intending on climbing in the Blue Mountains for a period (don't worry we are going to the Arrapilies too). I have got the guide book but it has raised a few questions which I wondered if anyone could answer:

The book says the Three Sisters are off limits at the time of print (2002), however the routes are some of the more inspiring in the lower grades. Does anyone have any more recent experience of this one way or the other?

Is there much of a requirement to conduct 60m abs as I was intending on just taking a single?

How many carrot plates would I need? And does anyone have any unwanted ones?

Is it truely accessible by public transport?

That's all for now.

In reply to HenryC:
Hi Theeni,
There are some great routes on the 3 sisters but the park service discourages climbers from climbing them. So it may be wise to look at the routes that are not too much in the public eye!. I have climbed the central sister route many times and it is a great varied , multi-pitch route. For the carrots we use wires which we slide open by pulling the nut back along the wire and then close around the carrot by pushing the nut tightly back. The natural gear on the central sister (grade 12 - 13 aussie) is great and you will only find the odd carrot on the belays. To rap off you we have always used 2 50m ropes. Check the current situation about climbing on the sisters as they (as with many sites in the blue mtns)open and close for reasons such as trail repair, fire danger etc etc. My favorite place was cosmic country , it had many fantastic routes but this has now also been closed. Mt Piddington is also great. Public transport is very convenient from sydney to all the sites. (esp the 3 sisters).
Have a great time!

In reply to HenryC:

Hi Mate, just come back from a year in Oz and frequented the Bluies. the Three Sisters are off limits, but locals do get up them because the lines are excellent. I would reccomend going early doors on a weekday as the main reason they close it is so Japanese tourists don't get trampled by falling rocks and/or climbers. Having said that there are plenty of excellent routes around the bluies. They are accessible to a point via the train from Sydney.. but will include a decent walk from either Katoomba or one of the next stations along the line. RE Bolt plates, I would say ten is more than enough, most routes only have around 2-6 on them, they are cheap enough and you can buy them from Mountain Equiptment on Kent Street in Sydney for next to nothing. Stick them in your chalk bag - its the only way to carry them!! RE Abseil... most places I went were accessbile via dicey descent route, but did have to absiel sometimes so worth considering taking with you. BTW Don't plan on buying any gear in Australia it is extremely expensive. Oh and Araps is amazing.

Hope it helps. If you are looking for somewhere to stay I know of a decent climber who rents the bottom part of his house out on the cheap to climbers and its all self contained for a weeks stay and about 1/3 the price of the hostels. Plus he might come out with you!! If interested just let me know and I can mail you his details.

Al

In reply to HenryC: One other point is that I was advised not to use 'wire' gate quickdraws on carrot tops, and to use only solid gates. Gear is expensive in Oz (particularly with current exchange rates), so if you don't have any, I'd say get before you go.

Also have a look at chockstone.org which is sort of the UKC for Oz and perhaps Canberra Climbers.

Have fun and remember to carry more water than you think you'll need.

Water is duely noted. I'm sure I have a few antiquated non-wiregate crabs somewhere so I will have to get digging, presumably if I use small wires to hook the bolts then that is less the case but I may grab a couple of hangers for belays rather than using wires.

It looks like an early start may be in order for the 3 sisters, it really does look like the most inspiring line in the guide. Is it 'banned' of 'discouraged'?

In reply to HenryC:

Hi Theeni,

I have some carrot plates, i'll have to see how many i have as they are somewhere up in the loft.

You can also get gear fairly cheap off www.climbinganchors.com.au Steve runs the shop, and is a very good friend (hence the plug !!) . Most of the climbs now have been re-bolted but classics like "Sweet dreams" still have carrots.

As for transport, well, from Blackheath station it's around a 30 min walk to places like Shipley, Porters Pass and Centennial glen (all have classics at the grades you are climbing)

Chris

In reply to HenryC:

I have done the West Wall route a few times back in the day but climbing is banned there now and the rangers do watch out for that sort of thing. It probably comprises about 1% of the routes available in the bluies so no great shame.

I would definitely recommend Piddington (Eternity 19), Mount Boyce (Firebug 16), Shipley (loads), Narrowneck (loads), Sublime Point (Sweet Dreams 14) and Cosmic County (loads) and that would give you a nice mix of trad and sport. For longer more inspiring stuff try the Grose areas for routes like Hotel California and Bunny Bucket Buttress.

You can get a few bolt plates in sydney for the belays as you say but wires will suffice for those on the routes.

In reply to HenryC:

I would like to add another thumbs up for Sweet Dreams. Excellent, excellent climb.

In reply to HenryC: Hi Theeni, I used to live in Sydney and was active with the SRC, as business secretary for 2 yrs.
The reason the Three Sisters formation was closed was twofold, the first and major concern to the NPWS was the erosion on the West Wall route (it was the trade route and was being used by all and sundry etc). The erosion scar was clearly visible from the main tourist lookouts at Echo Point and in consultation with the local climbers and clubs it was agreed to ban climbing there. Secondary was the danger of rocks being dislodged onto the tourist path below some of the routes, but these routes were scarcely climbed anyway. However the traverse off the West Wall route does pass above a path and has a bit of loose rock around.
I was there 2 yrs ago and the ban is still in place.

I can vouch for the route Sweet Dreams, much better than West Wall, with a choice of finish at Grade 17. Re double or single rope,double ropes will be better for most of the trad stuff in the Bluies (good sport climbing at Nowra), unless you are only going to do sport climbing along with a std rack will be very helpful, if not essential on some of the longer trad climbs.
There are other easy climbs around the area, Mount Boyce, Zig Zag, Piddington and excellent single pitch sport at Shipley Upper.
If you can find other climbers a trip to The Wolgan Valley will give you a true taste of more remote BM climbing, on the far side of the mountains where they discovered the Wollomi Pine dinosaur tree several years ago.

Public transport from Sydney ie train or coach will get you close to some of the climbing, but be prepared for 30 to 60 minutes (or more) of walking to most areas. Easiest access I can think of is Blackheath township where it is possible to walk from station to Shipley Upper and Mount Boyce.
Go to Leura if you want to do Sweet Dreams, other easy but "adventurous" climbs here also. For Zig Zag and Piddington go to Mount Victoria.
Mount York has tons of climbs, but is a long walk from Mount Vic and would be best to get a taxi or jag a lift.
The SRC, are often contacted by overseas climbers looking for partners or just others to show them around and you could always try giving them an email or dropping in on one of their meets, they used to meet once a month at Petersham Returned Services League Club, check this may of changed

I have plenty of bolt bkts if you need to borrow them (where are you located?), slipping a wire over the bolt head is a risky last resort.
Crofty

In reply to Crofty: I also have other guides for the area, if you want to borrow.

In reply to Alan Dixon:

Al,

I would be interested in the details of that chap who has some space for rent. If you could pass them along I'll get in touch.

Henry

In reply to HenryC: i urge you not to climb there.


but strongly suggest you go do bunny buckets buttress and hotel california.

big exposure and superb climbing. all on ring bolts.

enjoy:
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=route&route_id=...

In reply to HenryC:
Hey mate, his name is Steve but goes by Purdo. Really nice guy, and will go out climbing with you if he is free. I have stayed there, cant remember exactly what I paid, but it was cheaper than the YHA in Katoomba... here is his pitch from chokstone.


"I have a self contained two bedroom flat attached to my house available for rent weekends, long weekends, 7 nights or longer by negotiation nearby all the best climbing and bushwalking the Blue Mountains has to offer. Located 800m from town on the easten side. Double bed, 2 x single beds and trundle, full size kitchen with appliances and cutlery, lounge and dining area, bathroom incl. washing machine. Much cheaper than a motel with all the comforts of home. Please contact Steve on 0427 249 541."

If that number doesnt work, let me know and I can try and find his email address. Alternatively go on chokstone and ask around he will email you.

In reply to Alan Dixon:

Cheers for the info, an email address would be awesome as I don't actually have access to a phone from where I am (hot, dusty, just left of Pakistan)

Cheers

In reply to HenryC: To avoid confusion, the chockstone link is below. have fun, but I also understood that climbing was banned on the Three Sisters, if this is so, I would treat this seriously. This stuff really matters in Oz, it will be treated a great deal more seriously than here in the Uk for these things. If they are really unhappy, they could arrest you!!

Take local advice and there is lots to do other than these routes.

http://www.chockstone.org/