Can anyone shed some light on the Swedish grading system, I've noticed at Hallinden on UKC that they list the routes as n6 or n7 etc, is the number equal to the french grading system number and the n means something in Swedish,although I thought a lot of it was trad so maybe that's their trad grading system, any help would be appreciated
Different system. I'm sure somebody will shed more light, google it.
Remember that lots of countries ( in fact everywhere but the uk) use the same system for both sport and trad.
The n stands for Norwegian. A lot of the Swedish crags were developed by climbers who came down from Norway.
I used to think that but there doesn't seem much in it now that my jamming has improved.
Well, we stopped off at Bohuslan on the way home from Lofoten, lots of jamming at both places, and found Bohuslan harder...
I climbed there for a week a few years ago. I found the grades a little harder than the Rockfax chart suggests. N6- was usually E1, 6 E2, 6+ E3 and 7- E4. This was on well protected routes (most of the good routes were cracks and gives with lots of gear).
We did spend 1 day at a crag I forget the name of (home of Herrinfrukost and Silunchen) where everything seemed to be desperate for the grade, but well protected and very good. They were the earlier routes in the area.
Norway's like the UK in that some places are harder for the grade than others. Maybe Lofoten is at the easier end. Generally on the whole though I'd say Bohuslän compares fairly similar to Norway.
I think n is for Nordic
Yes, albeit it should be Scandinavian (ie. Swedish or Norwegian) and Nordics also include Finland, and their grading is a bit off (plus or so).
As for grading, it's the same as is used in even Lofoten Rockfax... and Bohuslan really isn't harder, the difference is that Bohuslän tends to be steeper... so will wear you out (unlike say Nissedal or Lofoten slabs).
We’ve been climbing in Bohuslan for couple of weeks now. Grades a bit random - n6- anything between HVS 5a and E2 5c, but usually about E1 5b. Have found some n6 routes easier than n6-. Haven’t done a poor route yet, great rock in really beautiful settings, with easy approaches. Take plenty of cams!
I've always thought of it a bit like climbing steep grit, it's often bang straight on the rock at that grade, no warming into it etc.. better to pick an easier line to warm up on and potentially keep a grade in hand until you get the feel for a given crag.
> and Bohuslan really isn't harder, the difference is that Bohuslän tends to be steeper... so will wear you out (unlike say Nissedal or Lofoten slabs).
Not so sure about this. Ive got a short sportsclimbing background climbing mostly steep-ish stuff and always hated slabs due to my crappy footwork. Still found n6 in Lofoten more or less same as 6- in Bohuslan.
Bohuslän is indeed graded slightly harder. I found the easier routes (below 6) quite easy for the grade, but some of the harder quite hard. Even for an experienced crack climber. More on grades in Scandinavia:
> Not so sure about this. Ive got a short sportsclimbing background climbing mostly steep-ish stuff and always hated slabs due to my crappy footwork.
And perhaps one reason for the 'feel' that Bohuslän is harder might have to do with how the grading system is utilized... as in does it take into account overall pump or not.
Eg. Fire forsak (n7-) in Lofoten has maybe 2 hard moves before and after easier climbing. Where as Jum Jum (n7-) has a tad longer crux sequene plus also more sustained climbing afterwards.
Still, both have the same grade of 7-, which is spot on for the crux... But overall, Jum Jum might feel harder due to the more sustained nature.
Oh, and most harder lines in Bohuslän are finger-cracks, which makes them much more size dependent than the wider stuff in Lofoten (hands, fists).
Yes, I would say that Swedish grades are slightly softer, but not by much. I seem to recall that my old spiral-bound Göteborg guide had a conversion table for Swedish and Norwegian grades. The reason for the n is presumably to be clear about which of the two scales it is. There is no unified Nordic grading.
> There is no unified Nordic grading.
My understanding is that you all nicked them from the Germans - like many other bad ideas in Nordic history ;-) so really they're all just bastardised UIAA grades. I've also found Norwegian grading massively inconsistent even crag to crag, let alone area to area.
My memories of the my limited climbing is Bohuslan is that the grades were fine, they are all considerably easier than Finnish grades of the same number, e.g. Bergkirstis polska (n6-) is 6- I reckon it would be 5 in Finnish grades.
Anyway, hasn't Sweden caved to the hegemonic power of 27 Crags and just given everything a French grade now anyway?
It's the same grading system in Norway and Sweden as far as I understand. Comparing Lofoten to Bohuslän is like comparing Pembroke to Swanage. It doesn't mean English grading is harder than Welsh just because most people find Swanage harder.
The grading system in Sweden and Norway is definitely the same, and started off as sandbagged UIAA grades. More or less all important figures on the Scandinavian climbing scene has put up routes in both countries, applying the same system wherever they go. Did Doseth or Lundahl use different scales on different sides of the Scandes? Of course not!
Of course grades varies from crag to crag, as they do in France (e.g: anyone trying to convince themselves that a 7a on the left bank of the river Verdon is as difficult as a 7a on the right bank is seriously deluding themselves).
The grades in Lofoten are way easier than in most places in Scandinavia.
> Anyway, hasn't Sweden caved to the hegemonic power of 27 Crags and just given everything a French grade now anyway?
The Bohuslan guidebook uses the Swedish grading system, but does give a conversion table to French and Yosemite Decimal.
Most things come from Germany, including your Royals ;-).
For sport climbing, we started moving to French grades decades ago.
I dropped 27 Crags after their rather draconian update to their T&C and data policy.
27crags coverage of Bohuslän is very thin on the routes front as far as topos go. Borderline useless for planning a long trip. I'd say Gryttr.com is better for bouldering as well.
Well worth buying the guidebook https://www.vpg.no/dvd-b%C3%B8ker/187830/klatref%C3%B8rer-klatring-i-bohusl%C3%A4n It was on sale in the local supermarket when we were there.
Seems so... https://27crags.com/crags/sjohaller/routes/svarta-svanen
So around 6c+/7a trad with one bolt in 20m...
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