UKC

Always wanted to climb at Buoux, but never got around to it in the 80's & 90's. I am passing by there on a family holiday next week and I have a free pass and non-climbing belayer, for a few hours climbing single pitch only, so I can scratch the itch. 

I guess we are talking about 4-6 routes, ideally in the same area. Current UK onsite standard is 6b+/6c, so realistically I suppose 6a/b routes taking into account the hard grading, the polish and the sunny south facing crag thing (although France currently much cooler than usual). 

Any advice on which part of the crag to go to would be much appreciated (I have the Rockfax and was thinking maybe Mur Zappa or Styx perhaps?)

Thanks in anticipation

Firstly, there is a lot less polish than you may expect. As always, be prepared for slab cruxes, which quite often rely on feet friction though being able to crimp on those small pockets will help.

Secondly, it will be sunny so I suggest you try and get 2 mornings rather than full day, if you can swing it.

You could head up to the Styx wall (all the 6s are good there), but it starts at 6b and they are tough for the grade and the routes are fairly samey. Récréactivité (6b) is the stand out classic there, I think.

For a good few hours climbing, I suggest an early start at the Mur Zappa and Pepsicomane areas to pick off some classics (see below), and then when it gets too hot head all the way east, past the inspiring Face Ouest, to the newly developed west-facing cliffs nearest the village. These are in the shade until the late afternoon (if memory serves me correctly) and there absolutely NO polish!

Pepsicomane and Styx

La Béda (6a+) -- stout jamming 6a+

Pepsicomane (6b) -- tough wall climbing, see the Edlinger soloing film 6b

Goulot Fou (6b+) -- the classy arete just right 6b+

Zappa Maniac (6b+) -- epitome of the Zappa wall 6b+

Far east cliffs

Les Mystères de l'Ouest (6b) -- classic Buoux pocket work 6b

Bicolore (6b+) -- outstanding varied route with a trad feel 6b+

Entre tes seins Droite (6b+) -- action packed 6b+

Boomerang (6a) -- a very good 6a

Not many in 6c grade to reccommend, but if you are capable, the must do 7as are Le Loir (7a), Songe Sucré (7a), Les diaments sont éternels (7a), TCF (Turbo Cibi Facho) (7a), and of course Rose de Sables (7a).

I'd have recommended Pepsocomane as well.  That plus a couple things on Zappa will work for a few hours

If you're at the Zappa wall don't forget the absolutely classic 3 star (should be 5 star) gritstonesque arete known as Enty-Prises.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/buoux-2006/enty-prises-33254

E

Did you mean far west cliffs, Jon ?

I do!!! Face Ouest should have been a bit of a clue for me....

(Doh, and "never eat shredded wheat")

Long ropes for Styx sector!

La Jonction (6b+) is very good but atypical Buoux but after Mur Zappa you’ll appreciate the change!

Thanks all for the suggestions much appreciated 

Don’t have any route suggestions but I would say I was surprised by buoux when I went. In a good way as it was nowhere near as polished i was expecting and the grades were nowhere near as stiff as it’s reputation. Climbing on UK limestone makes everything seem great polish wise in comparison to be fair.  Absolutely great place. It’s just a shame about the blazing sun that seems to hit the crag about 8am. 

Is face ouest and the further west sectors in the Topo?

Buoux is currently my local crag. 'Lots of good recommendations so far, and I've found the grades at Buoux can be different throughout the different sectors. 

I climbed at Mur Zappa a week or so ago and currently its quite dirty, with the slightly runout slabby top outs being rather dirty just when you don't want. Good slabbyish routes.. 

Styx is great and I would choose it over mur zappa, but most routes are full value for the grade, and you could consider climbing Rose de Sables (7a) as its next door. Rose is the climb of the crag and I think one of the softer 7as at Buoux.

Buoux Ouest has some great routes, and is well bolted, and is in the shade in the morning. Le Loir (7a) i found much harder than Rose. The area around Songe Sucré (7a) is next door as well with some fun 6a-6cs about. 

Some nice routes around  La Jonction (6b+) mentioned above. 

The new sector of Colorado has some very soft, extremely well bolted, unpolished lines. The routes tend to be long, and you need a lot of draws. A great 6c is the line of the crag. This area is also now very popular... 

The Auberge is open for some post climb beers, enjoy and let us know how you get on....

Not sure which topo you're referring to.

They are both in the latest up-to-date local guidebook (pub. 2021 I think), available in the bookshop in Apt,  and they are in this 'vampire' guide, but it doesn't have some latest additions in: https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/inner-grail-of-buoux-sport-climbi... 

I meant the most recent local Topo (last time I considered going I think was when ouest had only recently reopened so the routes weren't in that edition) - thanks for the info.

Good choice. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/buoux-2006/le_pilier_des_fourmis_l... Pitch 1 is good.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/buoux-2006/vaugrerays_sister-86294
and

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/buoux-2006/comme_un_loup_blesse-35...

are just nearby, and excellent, if you want to try something a bit harder.