/ Costa Blanca new routes

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bpmclimb on 04 Jan 2017

Got a CB trip in Feb, are there any very recently developed crags? Thanks.

BTW we will be staying near Guadalest, 2 of us mid grade and 2 lower grade.
Post edited at 09:50
Sam Mayfield - on 04 Jan 2017
In reply to bpmclimb:

Orange House been quiet as we are now based alot of the time in Bulgaria. However our mates up at Sector Final have been busy I think.

google Costa-Vertical for miniguide on website.

Sam Orange
bpmclimb on 04 Jan 2017
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Hi Sam, thanks for that. I had a few notes about those routes scrawled in pencil last year, and we tried a few, but it'll be much better to have the full info and topos. Looks like a good spread of grades for our group
Sam Mayfield - on 04 Jan 2017
In reply to bpmclimb:

I think I saw someone say The Edwards had been routing somewhere but getting topos from them is like pulling teeth! lol
Phil Murray - on 04 Jan 2017
In reply to bpmclimb:

Lots of continuous new development at Guadalest itself - pop into the refugio and buy a beer or coffee from Miguel & he will show you his new routes folders! We actually stayed at the refugio - 2 weeks ago. Also, despite what RockFax says, Zoo crag is great - and if you climb up to 6a+, you can tick the whole crag!

nb. Miguel & Marisol at the refugio really do not speak Enlish at all ..... ;)

Abdet also well worth a visit - RH sector was great rock. Enjoy!
bpmclimb on 04 Jan 2017
In reply to Phil Murray:

Thanks. Been meaning to check out The Zoo crags.
We're staying in Abdet, as it happens.
Phil Murray - on 06 Jan 2017
In reply to bpmclimb:

Hi - hope it goes well at Abdet - we only did 5 routes there, so will try to return one day & do more.
You'll need a 70m rope for the big multi pitches on the main Guadalest wall - I bought one specially after we bumbled around with a 60m rope last year & abbed off maillons etc......

cheers Phil
Jonathan Emett - on 07 Jan 2017
In reply to bpmclimb:

I recently finished a 7a+ extension and a ~7b at 'new' sella that are not in the current costa vertical topo. I also added a couple of shorter routes today which will be grade 4/5 ish. We are now out of hangers and chains until Tony and Kris get some more in. Any bolt fund donations appreciated at tony's house at la moleta
bpmclimb on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to Jonathan Emett and others:

Thanks for the replies

Tom Phillips - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to bpmclimb:

Some great climbs in stunning locations up on Serrella - pm me for topos. I must get the latest one on my site at, heavenly slab climbing at about 5+ to 6a+ !
bpmclimb on 13 Jan 2017
In reply to Tom Phillips:

Hi Tom - I'm Brian, staying at one of your Abdet houses next month. Very interested in seeing topos of new stuff in your area

M. Edwards on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to bpmclimb:

Find our topos here:
bpmclimb on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to M. Edwards:

Thanks Mark
Rick Graham on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to M. Edwards:

Very useful topos, Mark, thanks.

Could be useful to have a update/comments facility for feedback.

FFIW a few comments on the Haunted Walls, one of my favourite venues in the CB in the mid to late noughties.

The main pitch of Tranquillity takes everything from RP's to big hexes/cams ( no fixed gear )
Medium Rockcentrics were very useful on the lower pitches, cams would just not sit " right".

Phantom. The runout pitch could have been tamed by a big cam ( #5? ). Note to the wag who left the fixed sling with 50% of a double fishermans knot so it looked like a complete single fishermans, I retied tied it one handed on the lead
The top pitch had been fully bolted in 2008? so no ENPs required.
If climbing in winter get an early start so you arrive at the top pitch with the sun still on it.

Exorcist. No big gear required as suggested by the old 2001? Rockfax. Haunted Walls not in the 2005 edition.
The big gear comment would have been better directed at Phantom lower pitches.

Last time I was there some projecting going on , any more routes?
Some general comments on rack/ENPs handy, you will not get far with just a few wires to compliment a sports rack.

Some times for approach walk useful. About ten minutes to the Col from the parking and 15 minutes from there.
It could take quite a while to walk from the Sella side if no 4*4. Not done it on foot so won't guess.

It is good to identify the parking spot if accessing Nemesis /Cateral as it is the start of the diagonal path down to the base/ lower access track. Another option is to access via an ab from the base of the Haunted Walls gully.

Sam Mayfield - on 15 Jan 2017
In reply to M. Edwards:

Mark new website looks great and easy to find your topos! I take back my comments about pulling teeth, I just remember years ago when people tried to find your new routes and it was quite hard to track them down.

Thanks for the links I will put a mention on the notice board at OH so people can download when they stay with us if thats ok?

Regards Sam

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