UKC

i'm off to the costa shortly, and looking for something similar to the above, which i have done before. any recommendations??

In reply to Anonymous:

Arn't we all??? You could do it again..it has a direct start and a direct finish and several sections can be done by a different line. A good second place is Via Valencianos (sp?) at Calpe which is OK apart from a 5a jamming sequence (which many aid) .

thanks, i was thinking of valencianos. do you happen to knwo what gear you need to aid it?

In reply to Anonymous:
A couple of long sling to step in should do it, it is a very short section.

Via UBSA in the Mascarat Gorge is brilliant as well...

In reply to Anonymous:

Friends 2.5 to 4 should be OK and a few slings. From memory it was a wide hand/fist crack and would only get 4b in many parts of the the UK in any case (cf real 5a jams on Little Innominate). Please dont complain if I'm wrong.. it was about 5 years ago when I did it.

In reply to Anonymous: Re the hard bit on Valencianos - if you climb up the start of the left crack you can then step onto the bit in the middle quite easily (you'll see what I mean when you get there), this then leaves just one big pull up on the fist jam in the right hand crack - though from there you can reach a big bunch of tat and just pull on that if you want. Pulling on the tat reduces the grade to about 4b anyway so I don't think you'd even need to aid it properly.
The big slab higher up is brilliant at severe - well worth the hard bit below.

thanks. friends 2.5 to 4 were spot on, and the tat - two lots, round chockstones - was duly pulled on. the slab above was superb, but as it was about 29c that day, we cooked on it!

as well as plenty of bolt-clipping, we also went to echo valley, and did one of the excellent multi-pitch trad routes there.

it feels a bit chilly back here ......

In reply to felix: Which route did you do at Echo Valley, as I haven't got to grips with much there yet? I tried one last year but backed off when the holds started to detach from the cliff! We are going back in 3 weeks time, and because of the party we have this time need not too difficult, but preferably multi-pitch climbs