UKC

Off to Font on Saturday for a week.

It feels so wrong to go on a climbing trip and not take a rope + rack.

Is there NO trad climbing around Font!?

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Certainly no trad near Bleau

Nearest sport is on an old viaduct
http://www.ffme.fr/site/falaise-fiche/2134.html

next nearest is Saussois, Parc, etc
http://www.ffme.fr/site/falaise-liste.html?DEPARTEMENT=89
There's also some trad round there but I don't know about it

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Yes, there's absolutely loads of very short but totally gearless trad routes all over the place. You can use a mat to protect them if you don't like the landings.

But seriously, just relax and enjoy it for what's different about it. I'm a dyed-in-the-wool hex swinging traddie, and I had a great time when I went.

In reply to JimboWizbo: it's alpine climbing pratice. So pack light!

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Some of the Font boulders at Dame Jouanne are quite high, particularly La Dame Jouanne itself which is a big pinnacle about 8m high. I certainly wouldn't feel comfortable soloing it - the photo in the French guide book "Escalades et Randonnees by Arthaud shows climbers climbing it roped.

The nearest sport is at La Muraillette de Glandells, near Glandelles where there are about 2 dozen routes to the south of Nemours. The guide book recommends 15m/20m and 3 or 4 quick draws.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Arranging a trip to Font and then asking about trad to do there?? It's like ordering a malt and asking for ice in it! Take it straight man!

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Even a dyed in the wool tradster like me doesn't take anything but a mat to Font. The mat is borrowed.