UKC

Leigh Woods Quarry 3 - favourite 5/6a/6a+ routes and updated topos?

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 dvidg 28 Jul 2022

I've been really enjoying exploring Leigh Woods Quarry 3 - I can't believe there is some summer sport climbing a mere 10 minutes cycle from my door!

That being said, I've been using the Avon Gorge book from 2017 and have found matching up some of the routes to their names quite a challenge and since publication quite a few routes have been added according to UKC.

What are the best Quarry 3 routes in the 'easy' 5/6a/6a+ range? I loved Passage to India but got totally shut down on See the Bigger Picture.

Does anyone have any pictures / a more detailed description of Fear No Evil?

Where exactly is Celestine (5b)?

Thanks!

 The Pylon King 28 Jul 2022
In reply to dvidg:

Full details/topos etc (written by the first ascensionists) coming in forthcoming GWR Bristol Area Sport book later this year plus loads and loads more (including new crags).

 Steve Claw 28 Jul 2022
In reply to dvidg:

> I've been really enjoying exploring Leigh Woods Quarry 3 - I can't believe there is some summer sport climbing a mere 10 minutes cycle from my door!

As Pylon King said there is lots more coming in the new guide.  All very exciting!

> That being said, I've been using the Avon Gorge book from 2017 and have found matching up some of the routes to their names quite a challenge and since publication quite a few routes have been added according to UKC.

> What are the best Quarry 3 routes in the 'easy' 5/6a/6a+ range? I loved Passage to India but got totally shut down on See the Bigger Picture.

I would just work your way through all the ones at your grade.  Beware of the loose nature of the rock in the quarry, its much less stable than it looks.

> Does anyone have any pictures / a more detailed description of Fear No Evil?

You should be able to work this out from the Avon guide, it starts up 39 Year War, which is approx opposite the upper of the 2 graffiti walls.

> Where exactly is Celestine (5b)?

This is the first line down the slope from Passage to India, starting on a wooden step

OP dvidg 29 Jul 2022
In reply to The Pylon King:

Unfortunately I'm leaving Bristol for Squamish for a few years this year so I might miss the book! Time to pack in as much as possible before then. Thanks!

 The Norris 29 Jul 2022
In reply to dvidg:

You must be gutted, swapping the esoteric quarries of the southwest with the stawamus cheif.. I feel for you 😂


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