UKC

hi,me and my mate quite fancy mallorca for a week of sunny climbing this summer,anyone been already? if so any recomendations,tips or advice?
many thanks

In reply to daz: its absoloutly brilliant definatly reccomend it. rockfax actually do a guide to mallorca which is well worth the money, a good but easy multi pitch route is allbrahida in sa gubia can be done sport or trad and visit allero it offers the world best tufa.
hope that helps

In reply to daz:
Yup, I have. It's great! Quite a few people I know go there as well. There's climbing all over the island but it's a small island so you can drive to any of the venues probably in under an hour.

Getting there - you can get flights to Palma on Easyjet from Gatwick (not sure where you will be flying from) and if you fly on weekdays (not Fri nights or weekends) you can get really cheap flights. Also try Monarch or BA - it depends, you can get some cheap deals.

You only need rope and quickdraws really as it's mainly sport or DWS.

Definitely hire a car as you will want to get around. The one I always use is http://www.carjet.com - probably about £100 for a week.

Adam Tegg and Cangen Hyll on this forum have an apartment rentals business so you could mail them - they are based in Palma which is in the South. JH on here is based in Puerto Pollensa in the North and he runs a rock climbing/adventure sport company (guiding etc). Any of those three should be able to help you out.

In reply to danny 7a+: nice one cheers,whats the access like? do you get much hassle?

In reply to daz:
There's a new Rockfax guide out and there's a Chris Craggs guide also. I think Rockfax is for sale on the island (there's another thread about it somewhere) but you're probably best off getting it before you go.

Re: timings, if you go out in August I reckon you probably want to spend the days on the beach and climb in the evenings! As we always find it a bit hot during the day.

In reply to daz: quite a few crags are a bit of a walk in but arnt they all. were off out there on august 21 for a week if your out there then send me an email if you fancy, i would advise buyin the rockfax guide will make your week so much easier

In reply to daz:

I got back from Mallorca on Sunday morning, we did mainly DWS as the weather was perfect for it, it was a little too hot to do much sports stuff unless you were up and on routes for sunrise or climbing late in the evening.

We climbed Albahida at Sa Gubia one day which was great, although really warm as the day progressed but definately a route worth doing if you're out there, just make sure you follow the descent instructions carefully and are ready for a long walk down.

Definatley worth getting the rockfax Mallorca book and the DWS downlodable guide, they should have pretty much everything you need in them.

It's a fabulous island and well worth a visit, I intend to be back there as soon as possible, when it's a little cooler, to get more sports routes done.

Does anyone know any good info on a good campsite nearish to some climbing. Whats the score on wild camping? cheers

Wild camping is technically not allowed but a lot of people do it, I bought a DWS/Climbing book while I was out there written by a Mallorcan climber and he mentions that it's alright to sleep in the woods close to most of the DWS venues as long as you are discreet and dont light fires.

I don't think there are many / any proper campsites on the island. certainly none that are well known or advertised.

In reply to magpie:
i thought that would be the case, Cheers

In reply to krank:

we went for a hotel as it was £6 per night each!! so look around first, try www.hostelworld.com you could camp at cala maranger (think its misspelt but its in rockfax) also you could camp at la crevata and maybe sestet.

i'm going there in 2 weeks

Kev