UKC

Mallorca’s sea cliffs

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Ian Carey 13 Oct 2017
There is clearly a lot of climbing in Mallorca and UKC has an excellent destination guide, as well as numerous guide books being available.

Although I have been to Mallorca numerous times, I have mainly been walking or sailing. On such visits, as I have this week, I often look at high mountain crags or wonderful sea cliffs, yet never see anyone climbing them or find any info about routes.

Admittedly access by foot or sea is not easy. As many will know, walking off the beaten path in Mallorca can be difficult and approaches from the sea, especially in a sailing boat is problematic.

So, my question: are there vast areas of Mallorca rock yet to be explored or am just looking in the wrong places for information?

Ian

 iknowfear 13 Oct 2017
In reply to Ian Carey:

Hi Ian,

Mallorca is world famous for Deep water Soloing (Or Psychobloc as its also called) .

Great fun, no gear, and exhilarating .

Just think of the golden DWS rules:
- Never go alone
- Have an exit plan and a backup exit plan*
- Check out the falls before comitting on the climbs

* A rope ladder of an old climbing half-rope streches like hell, as I found out. Not fun to get out of the water....
 ian caton 13 Oct 2017
In reply to Ian Carey:

I think the huge cliffs up the north west coast aren't climbed. They must be thousands of feet high.

Access would be tricky.

I would be surprised if nobody has touched them at all, they go on for mile after mile when your sailing by.

 Macca_7 13 Oct 2017
In reply to iknowfear:

I'm not sure it called "psychobloc" although that might be more fitting for some ascents!

Cheers
 aln 13 Oct 2017
In reply to Ian Carey:

Great job guys on publicising the potential for Mallorcan sea cliff climbing!
1
Ian Carey 14 Oct 2017
In reply to iknowfear:

When on sailing trips I’ve done some easy soloing from a rubber dinghy, so I know it’s possible to gain access to some of the cliffs.

I still get the impression that there is scope for new routing on sea cliffs and high mountain crags.

I need to get a team together of sailors/climbers and go exploring.

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