UKC

What are the chances of getting good conditions in Moab the last week in Feb? Or should I play it safe and go to Joshua Tree? Never been to either but am really keen on Indian Creek...

In reply to jo banner: I would think Moab would be a bit chilly at that time of year, I went in November and conditions were about right. J-tree will be a safer bet for sure.

In terms of the climbing I found indian creek a bit samey, ie once you have climbed a few hand cracks they all started to feel the same. Joshua Tree on the other had has a bit more diversity.

In terms of the towns themselves Moab is a nice small town with loads of awesome things to do in close proximity to the town such as the canyonlands and arches national park as well as cool mtbing, tower climbing etc. Joshua Tree on the other hand is a bit of a shit hole outside of the park.

I guess it depends how long you are planning on going. Red Rocks might be worth considering as well.

In reply to gcandlin: Cheers, will definitely think on Red Rocks.

In reply to gcandlin:


Maybe, but Indian Creek is absolutely world class - the premier crack climbing mecca on ther planet. And the cracks come in all widths! Joshua Tree is nice, but do you really want to fly half way round the world and find you might as well be in the Peak?

In addition, Indian Creek is in the midst of some of the most awesome desert scenery in the world. Joshua Tree is quite scenic itself but is in relatively non-descript surroundings.

Others will be in a better position to coment on February weather though. I got snow, sun and thunder at Joshua Tree in April and have had pretty perfect shade temperatures at indian Creek twice in April. Don't know whether this is typical though.

In reply to jo banner:

I'd vote for Indian Creek. It might be cold but I had a good time climbing there despite a foot of snow on the ground in January once. The other climbing surrounding Moab is amazing too with Arches National Park containing some good routes, Canyonlands providing amazing towers (and offwidth roofs), & Castle Valley in addition to the Creek.

J-tree on the other hand was a bit of a disappointment. A cool place to hang out but not worth flying round the world to.

In reply to jo banner:

Can't help with a comparison because I've never been to J Tree but I've visited Moab six or seven times. It's a lovely little town, friendly people, good bars and even good beer. Surrounded by fantastic scenery in Arches and Canyonlands, superb bikng and walking, Potash Rd crags at the edge of town. Indie Creek a bit further
Probably should not say it on UKC but the more I go to the desert the less time I spend climbing there, despite the splitter cracks and the towers. The exploring in the canyons is just so astounding it begins to feel like a bit of a waste to spend the day with your nose pressed against one little bit of rock when you could be wandering through these amazing places.

In reply to jo banner:

A lifetime of climbing there. I thought the proximity to Vegas detracted, but if you lived in Vegas it would be the ultimate local crag!

Another vote for Moab. I thought J tree was not that great in terms of climbing ( although many disagree), and the town is certainly not that nice. Moab is a cool town, and the climbing, desert scenery, and other things to do is all simply mind blowing

In reply to GDes: The more I think about this, I would actually say definitely Moab!

In reply to jo banner:
I live in Utah and I would pick JTree that time of year. If you get bad weather which is very possible you really can't do much in Moab. The desert when wet and windy is terrible. At least in Josh the rock drys quick and Red Rocks in Vegas is only 3 hrs away for plan B.

In reply to GDes:

I can't comment on Moab, but from my brief stay in J-Tree I agree with what you say. The town is a dive and, while the park itself is pretty, the climbing isn't that special. As somebody else said, the climbing is similar to the Peak District in style and appearance (though not in terms of sheer concentration of rock, or, of course, weather!).

In reply to Alun:

An alternative view:

The town is a dive

29 Palms is a genuine Ameriacn small town with its share of drop outs, single moms, tweakers and the flotsam and jetsam of American society. Moab is a destination town full of poncy hippies extolling the virtues of micro-brewiers and early morning yoga.


the climbing is similar to the Peak District in style and appearance

Well yes, the rock is brown... but J-Tree, whilst mostly single pitch, is full of long, sustained lines which make Millstone look like a scruffy hole in the ground and its routes two-move wonders. Sure, there's a Brimham-esque quality to the place, but I'm not sure that's a bad thing. I found the routes at Red Rocks to be fairly samey affairs (I'd still go back there tho).

Having said that my next US trip would probably be to Moab as who can resist the lure of the planet's premier crack climbing destination?

In reply to seankenny:

I've not been to Moab but must give some love for Joshua Tree; the variety of routes is samply amazing and there are quite a few really long meaty pitches eg Illusion Dweller, Loose Lady, run for your life, EBGBs (at my level). There are thousands and thousands to go at.
Wandering about the desert is fun, as is chewing the cud at the campground.

In reply to jo banner: Moab area is amazing! No idea about weather in Feb. though.

In reply to gcandlin:

One motel I once stayed in in Joshua Tree gave the impression that it might have been the inspiration for Hotel California.

In reply to pasbury:

I am a big fan of JT too. I love both the atmosphere and the style of the climbing. Two routes at the 5.10 level I would pick for special mention are Solid Gold and Fingers on a Landscape.

In reply to seankenny:

well said. Where the f&ck do you find all the long routes to 180m in the Peak. At least half of peak routes would be boulder problems in JT. The town isn't a dive either I've been 6 or7 times and never had a problem. It's a shame that Crossroads changed owners but beer and food is still plentiful and there are as many hippies and artists in both venues.

Moab is nice and the climbing is great if you can lead at least 5.9 (UK E1ish) but not so reliable in Feb and not with as much variety as JT also RedRocks isn't 3 hours drive as an perfect compliment.