/ Naranjo de Bulnes

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my 11 Jun 2019

Hi, has anyone climbed the Martinez Direct (Normal Route) on the Naranjo de Bulnes? The entry here on UKC gives it a VI+, however all the online topo's I can see state the 5 pitches as IV+, IV, III+, IV+,III.

Ideally I'm after a rough opinion (if you've done it, no guesswork please!) of whether it's uk HS/VS ish? 

Many thanks! 

Deadeye 11 Jun 2019
In reply to my:

I have done it.  The line we took was V max.

fifthsunset 11 Jun 2019
In reply to my:

> Hi, has anyone climbed the Martinez Direct (Normal Route) on the Naranjo de Bulnes? The entry here on UKC gives it a VI+, however all the online topo's I can see state the 5 pitches as IV+, IV, III+, IV+,III.

> Ideally I'm after a rough opinion (if you've done it, no guesswork please!) of whether it's uk HS/VS ish? 

> Many thanks! 

It's easier than that. Vdiff or Severe I'd say. Bolted anchors. We didnt bother pitching the final pitch. First pitch is polished, the rest are not. 

my 11 Jun 2019

Thanks both for the replies, sounds like it's on the Vdiff/S end of things then, great

Any other recommended multi-pitch routes you've done in the area or at Quiros / Terverga that you loved?! Sport or trad.

Cheers! 

dave657 11 Jun 2019
In reply to my:

I did it a good few years ago, i vaguely remember it feeling about HS.

Deadeye 11 Jun 2019
In reply to my:

Two other points of advice about the big orange.

1.  On th eapproach round the base, wear your helmet.  If you look at the snow you will understand why.

2.  If you climb it and one of the unexpected afternoon thunderstorms comes in *do not* try to tag the summit.  Scarper down as fast as you can.  It's a M A H O O O S I V E lightning conductor, being higher than everythign else and quite pointy.

smoreda 11 Jun 2019
In reply to my:

It is true that the entry on UKC of VI+ is inaccurate, but:

1. Pitch 1 is typically graded V+ and, only for a couple of metres, it does feel more like HS

2. The start of P2 can have some spice to it

3. P4 is IV+ but all the way, following a runnel for approx. 20 m., sustained

4. Belays are bolted but the harder sections of Ps 1 & 4 you will have to protect yourself - cams all the way

5. You will be climbing above 2000 msnm, 3-4 hours away from your car and 1 hour away from the hut (water); so you will want carry water and layers according to the prevailing conditions (heat/cold) etc.

In conclusion, it is a fantastic place and fantastic route, a very pleasant little adventure, but it is something more than your average UK VDiff/Sev affair.

daWalt 11 Jun 2019
In reply to my:

HS is a fair equivalent grade overall - difficulties aren't sustained.

take a couple of extra slings to use on threads, and a couple of big cams.

I'd suggest go during the week rather than the weekend; it gets busy. The route is on the main decent (there are parallel abb anchors; but most people use the same belays) and there's more lose stuff on the route than you might expect - not the climbing; just lost of little pebbles that have come down form above.

if you're staying at the hut you need to call and book - it gets totally rammed during high season.

Simon Caldwell 12 Jun 2019
In reply to my:

We went to do the route but even though we were out of season we accidentally picked a public holiday and there was a big queue. So we did Via Nani (TD-) instead, which I'd recommend highly, though it's maybe harder than you want (closer to VS/HVS).

Other good routes we didCusto colero (variant) (5c):

La Alfonsada (D)

Vía Normal (AD)

Madejuno-Tiro Llago traverse (AD)

East Ridge (D)

Espolón Rojizo (AD+)

and some bolted fun on Custo colero (variant) (5c)

Lesdavmor 12 Jun 2019
In reply to daWalt:

I have done it twice and can confirm that the only hardish move is about 2 or 3 metres up, protected by a medium cam.Weekends are a nightmare, both at the hut and on the mountain, especially after a period of bad weather. Suerte


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