UKC

Hi - I’ve noticed Orco coming up a lot when looking into European destinations for trad climbing. We have a week away booked in august and looking for a trad climbing trip. I live in Sheffield and lead e2 (done a lot of the cracks at millstone at and below that grade) my partner hasn’t trad climbed consistently for a while and more happy leading HVS max. Hopefully some people on here have been and can answer some questions??

- is there much there HVS and below both single and multi pitch?

- is there a big focus on crack climbing on a lot of the routes? If you don’t love jamming is it a waste of time? I like crack climbing but partner less so.

- is there multi pitch sport there as well? Looking for stuff sub 6c I guess

cheers for any help!

There isn't loads below HVS and there is quite a lot of crack climbing.

However it's an amazing valley, with lots of styles of climbing, trad, sport, bouldering (even aid). We climbed lots on the crags between the Sergeant and Lago di Ceresole and had a great time.

The sport climbing is generally less crack dependent (local ethics are fairly strict on bolting cracks) and I think there is some multipitch sport around, but we didn't do any when we were there.

hey Rich,

Orco is a great, relaxed valley with multiple huge cliffs and sensational climbing.

Overall, although there's a lot of cracks, they are cracks of all different types, whilst the climbing leans very much towards a UK trad style rather than towards pure splitter crack climbing. I used to bail there in the Autumn when I was living in Chamonix, but my climbing buddies, who were invariably foreign climbing guides, tended to find the style quite tricky, whilst I loved it. As i say, because of its diversity and oddness, I think it really suits someone with an extensive UK background. 

There are quite a few single pitch opps, and a large number of 2-3 pitch routes, though some folk often do the lower pitches to the bigger affairs. I've never come across a pure bolt line, though some of the slabbier pitches have the occasional bolt/peg.  HVSwise, I'd think your partner would find the climbing a bit too challenging..

Your main difficulty may be the heat. The main cliffs all face south and there's no way I could ever climb there in August. I've often climbed there in 15-16C conditions in October and found it super warm.

Personally, if i was looking for a mountain setting in August with lots of diverse climbing, I'd favour the Aiguilles Rouges in the Chamonix valley, the extraordinary Briancon area which has something for everyone, or, better still, perhaps the much under-rated central Switzerland if you're happy doing a bit more driving from crag to crag.

I'm in Sheffield too if you wanted to peruse the odd guidebook to any of these areas..

John C

Thanks for taking the time to reply in such detail John - thats all very helpful!

We're kind of looking for something a bit like Aliefroide in the Ecrins I guess. Done Chamonix a few times so trying to avoid that in favour of something new, but maybe the time of year puts this one out of favour!

Thanks Alex - what time of year did you go?

Also John - I think we may have met... I often climb with Murillo at Awesome Walls - seem to remember him chatting to a chap called John a few times  

August, it was warm but fine for climbing. If it's hot you just move higher up the valley.

Head up the side valley to the Rigugo Pontese (2200mtrs), loads of climbing up there either above the refuge or on the road on the way up to the dam. You do have to be prepared to walk though to earn your route as its much more of an alpine venue without the lift availability of Chamonix although easier options are available. You should be able to buy a guide book at the refuge otherwise loads of information available. 

hey Rich, yeh, that is me.. 

There is quite a lot more to do in the Brianconais over and above Ailefroide. There are a large number of limestone multi pitch crags (4-5pitches) of very high quality near Vallouise or Fressieniere. There are also several 'dolimitic' style ranges at the Col de lauteret end of town. they are of immensely high quality.

Of course, if you genuinely want someone new to explore, then central switzerland around the susten, furka, and grimsel passes could be the place. 

Here's the UKC link to a route list from one of the main guidebooks. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=3909

The first routes on the Steingletscher from the Susten pass, for example, have a steady 45-50min approach, no alpine nastiness, are all trad with bolt belays, and the rock is of super high gneiss quality..

Your other options are: Bregalia, Switzerland (lots to do but tricky getting there),or Saas Grund, lots to do again, but all require a bit of an approach..

Happy to discuss..

JC