UKC

Sicily Climbing Recommendations

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Hi, I've got a weeks holiday booked at the start of December and am planning on travelling to Sicily to do some climbing, but trying to work out where would be best to stay. Would ideally like to walk to crags or a short bus journey, not planning on renting a car unless necessary and would like to do a mix of single and multi pitch sport up-to 7b. Any recommendation's for places to stay would be appreciated, planning on flying to palmera.  

 james1978 18 Nov 2021
In reply to Emlyn Price:

Just back from 11 days...stayed in san vito. It was a bit of a ghost town at this time of year but a reasonable base for a first time visitor. I'd recommend hiring a car,it makes life much easier obviously. We paid £110 for 11 days.

Never sleeping wall was good, and also down on the beach near the " bunker" too.

Have a great time! 

 e.ms355 18 Nov 2021
In reply to Emlyn Price:

I'm not sure on getting to this place without a car, i'm sure with a bit of research you could but we stayed here: 

https://www.elbahira.it/eng/climbing.php

there is crag quite literally behind the campsite, walking distance (2mins) and it's right on the sea too. if you really didn't want to rent a car, i'd say this could be one of the better choices for access. we stayed in a cabin which was basic but suited our group and was so quiet so could happily sit out having a bbq/fire in the evening without disturbing others as in January when we went it was deserted.

 jimtitt 18 Nov 2021
In reply to e.ms355:

It's a bit tortuous getting to San Vito by bus, roughly you go to Palermo then Trapani then get a bus from there to San Vito. The bus stops at the end of the campsite road/cliff, maybe 1-1.5km to walk. It's worse than one would think as Trapani is the provincial capital, not Palermo so that's where the buses go.

The campsite and others do an airport shuttle though on request.

 daimon Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 18 Nov 2021
In reply to Emlyn Price:

There does seem to be a  bus that goes once a day from the airport (Palermo) to San Vito. Im sure they would drop you off where you needed, i.e at the end of the drive to El Bahira if staying there which I recommend as there are loads of climbing all around the campsite.

Bus is: https://www.russoautoservizi.it/en/

 jimtitt 18 Nov 2021
In reply to daimon:

Well yeah, unless it's changed it leaves San Vito at 6.30 or so, when it returns who knows, something like 2.30. Don't know anyone who's ever got it.

In reply to Emlyn Price:

As others have mentioned, the campsite at St Vito is really handy.

The adjacent climbing at Salinella https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2016/03/11/more-climbing-by-the-seaside/ and The Bunker https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2016/03/11/back-in-the-bunker/ are really convenient and walkable.

More easily accessed with a car, Never Sleeping Wall is a world class name for a world class crag https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2016/03/18/more-tufa-tussles/

More tufa fun at Crown of Aragon https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2016/03/11/crown-of-aragon/

The Bar San Vito in town is very welcoming - say hi to Vince if he's still the patron  

Enjoy! Cheers, Dom 

 daimon Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 19 Nov 2021
In reply to jimtitt: I would however though suggest a car. This bus seems the most simplest, but like you say, don’t know anyone who has used it.


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