UKC

Siurana & Arboli easy but steep

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 LeeWood 19 Apr 2019

Hoping to get there soon with my 14 yr old lad. Sector recommendations please, esp if there is something missed out of Tarragona Climbs. Between V+ and 6c.

 1poundSOCKS 19 Apr 2019
In reply to LeeWood:

I think all the steep stuff in Siurana is very hard. The vast majority of the crags are vertical or even slab, certainly all of the stuff below 7a which is mostly what I've climbed there on several trips. I've only climbed at Arboli once but I think it's a pretty similar story.

 jon 19 Apr 2019
In reply to LeeWood:

I found the grades at Arboli to be about a whole grade softer than Siurana, in general. Always makes me chuckle when people say that Spanish grades are soft... clearly they've never been to Siurana 

 Enty 19 Apr 2019
In reply to LeeWood:

Agree with Jon. I was there a few weeks ago.

At El Falco (Arboli) we did Borinot to the first belay - easy 6b+
Le Miller de... 6c - ok for 6c until the last technical move..
Haber Pedido Muerte, 6b+ which felt harder than Miller de. 6c in local guidebook.

Everything I've done at the Village crags between 6a and 6c felt considerably harder than these. Still great climbing though, just drop a grade.

E

OP LeeWood 19 Apr 2019
In reply to Enty:

Thanks to you and all for the feedback. If we can't have steep then we'll settle for vertical !

I climbed at Siurana valley crags last year and thought the grading ok … but we'll keep a reserve day in mind for Arboli to boost morale   

In reply to LeeWood:

El Falcó in Arbolí is great, but I have always had a soft spot for Montral, and the Calipso wall is absolutely brilliant (as long as you avoid the 6a+ on the left and Calipso is no push over at 6c, the 6c+to its right is a bit easier). 

Have fun

OP LeeWood 08 May 2019
In reply to Dago theruinmargalef:

Thanks for that prompt on Mont Ral, its a bit of a trek from base in Siurana but maybe worthwhile. We got a good visit in at El Falco 2wks ago, the lad worked and climbed 6c 2x - not really steep but all good stuff.

Siurana may not be the best choice for lower grade climbers, esp as the lower angled black rock is often weathered excrutiatingly sharp - hard on the fingers. However it makes up with its BIG ambience. NB. El Falco is kinder on the fingers.


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