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So who's got the worst local-lockdown crag?

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 Marek 06 Jan 2021

Rules of the game:

* Crag must be lockdown-local - ideally within walking distance of home, preferably in your "village, town or area of city".

* Crag must have appeared in at least one published guide book or is in the UKC Logbooks.

* You have to have climbed at least one listed route during lockdown (either).

* You can nominate one local reserve crag that you haven't climbed on because it's even worse.

* Scoring: 10 points if you walked to it, 5 points if you cycled. Add one point for each route climbed. Subtract total stars for whole crag (reference of choice). Add 2 points if you can name one redeeming feature (illogical, but there you go). 

Best I can offer is Tegg's Nose Quarry (walked, 2 routes, 8 stars (What!), bomb-proof belays at the top = 6 points. If I could find my old Kinder guidebook, I'm sure I could get the star rating down to something more reasonable, but it's gone AWOL.

For the reserve, I'd go with Beeston Quarry in Bollington. Never ventured there. Hope never to have to. Would probably cycle to it for about 10 points. If I had to.

 Alex Riley 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

The local isn’t quite as bad/limited as it used to be...

At the start of the first lockdown it had 8 stars, I walked and I climbed three routes so 5 points.

The crag now has 9-10 new routes and a few new boulder problems after a few visits and some extensive cleaning

 Snyggapa 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Might not win this one

Baggy Point, +5 for cycle in, 17 routes for 22 and then minus about 100 for the stars , call it -78

 Wainers44 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Easy winner. Parson and Clerk,  red sandstone, Dawlish. From the classic South Devon and Dartmoor Guide...."requires the skillful use of rubble..."!

Sorry,  this only makes the reserve list as I haven't been daft enough to climb it. You do have to kayak to it though!

Post edited at 17:01
 ianstevens 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Jesmond Dene - "The quarry is in a state of disrepair due to local youths smashing bottles and starting fires"

Thank f*ck I've moved house for this lockdown*

(*I actually moved about 6 weeks ago)

Post edited at 16:54
 Marek 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Alex Riley:

So probably not a winner, but for completeness - what's the crag?

 Marek 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Wainers44:

> Easy winner. Parson and Clerk,  red sandstone, Dawlish. From the classic South Devon and Dartmoor Guide...."requires the skillful use of rubble..."!

So what points are you claiming? You have to have actually climbed there during lockdown.

 Marek 06 Jan 2021
In reply to ianstevens:

As for the previous poster - what points are you claiming? A bad crag is not enough - you have to have resorted to climbing there in lockdown.

Post edited at 17:01
 Iamgregp 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

There is nothing climbable within walking distance of my house, and I don't have a bike.

What do I win?

 Marek 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Wainers44:

> Easy winner. Parson and Clerk,  red sandstone, Dawlish. From the classic South Devon and Dartmoor Guide...."requires the skillful use of rubble..."!

> Sorry,  this only makes the reserve list as I haven't been daft enough to climb it. You do have to kayak to it though!

Oooh, kayak. I might update the rules to include that. But you do have to kayak from home.

 Wainers44 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

> Oooh, kayak. I might update the rules to include that. But you do have to kayak from home.

No problem, slipway 16 paces from front gate! Tide needs to be ebbing otherwise arms are burned while paddling against 8 knot tide!

So will kayak there and fall off the bottom 6 feet to claim the points 😳 

Post edited at 17:11
 Marek 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Iamgregp:

> There is nothing climbable within walking distance of my house, and I don't have a bike.

> What do I win?

Well, if you're desperate for the associated fame and fortune I suppose you could find "something" and try adding it to the logbooks. You never know what might have been missed. Or get a bike?

In reply to Iamgregp:

> There is nothing climbable within walking distance of my house, and I don't have a bike.

> What do I win?

My condolences....

Sorry...bad joke.

 Iamgregp 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

I'm in the east end of London, there's absolutely nothing...

If I had a bike Mabley Green Boulder isn't too far, but I've never climbed it so didn't think I could claim it as an entry!

Should get a bike really.

 Marek 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Iamgregp:

> I'm in the east end of London, there's absolutely nothing...

> If I had a bike Mabley Green Boulder isn't too far, but I've never climbed it so didn't think I could claim it as an entry!

> Should get a bike really.

Well, you've still got weeks of lockdown to get in a entry. And if this isn't enough motivation to get a bike then nothing is!

 ipfreely 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

I must be a contender for winner.
I live in Hull & have nothing local to me, i need a new hobby  

 ianstevens 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

I did in the last lockdown. The description says it all - it’s full of bottles, old fires, and often youths who are the cause of both. Add in the mix it’s a bit loose at the top so there’s a risk of bits landing on your head. To add to all that, it’s next to a river that smells like a sewer.

 tingle 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

I zoomed in on crag maps to see if there’s any hidden gems and I found the beauty that is shibden glen, description read: “i believe it could be one of Yorkshires biggest secrets.” . It used to have several routes but I’m afraid it scores zero points because I still drove there and it’s been half filled with actual shite

In reply to Marek:

Beeston Quarry would be mine, but I haven't climbed there since the foot-and-mouth, and haven't climbed at all since first lockdown. It's pretty grim. 

 Rowan Morgan 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Easy answer here:  Pardshaw Crag absolute rubbish... and I'm developing/moderating it...!

5 points for a 15 min cycle, climbed everything there (not a lot!) plus 6. Another 2 for a charming panorama of the North West fells. 

 Alex Riley 06 Jan 2021
 mike123 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Rowan Morgan:

> Easy answer here:  Pardshaw Crag absolute rubbish... and I'm developing/moderating it...!

developing it you say ?

rubbish you say ?

hmmmm......

there are more than one or two,  now grey bearded and wrinkly but once not so residents of that shire that might take issue with that, when someone tells them about “ the internet “  I ’m sure they ll be  alomg to chastise you soundly . One of the characters I refer to has a very sharp toungue indeed . 

 Rowan Morgan 06 Jan 2021
In reply to mike123:

"Rubbish" with a tone of fondness, I promise! Had some lovely evenings there when I started climbing a couple of years past.

If there's anyone who has inside knowledge of more good rock in the area I'd welcome their input/chastisement with open arms! As far as I could tell it was largely disregarded.

Maybe I should rescind the "developing" comment before the lynch mob arrives...

 jamesg85 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

I haven't climbed in years but I live in Worcestershire! haha

 Neil R 06 Jan 2021
In reply to ianstevens:

On the plus side it did have Pets Corner if you got bored with the climbing.

In reply to Neil R:

Nah it has to be only 'Crag must have appeared in at least one published guide book'. Anyone can put any crap up on UKC and call it a crag.

 ianstevens 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Mark S Davies:

It's in the Northumberland guide

 mrphilipoldham 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

I've since moved and  Bridestones (West Yorkshire) is my nearest lump of recorded rock now (well, aside  Jack Bridge Boulders) but previously a cycled to (5) Chatterton Lane Quarry and climbed (1)  The Arête (VS 4b). Only route listed here, and I don't have the old Kinder guide so just two stars (-2). Redeeming feature? Completely isolated once in, so I got away with my naughtiness, until now. Total of 6.

Lots of small unrecorded quarries local to here now but they're all wetter than an otters pocket so I'm hoping lockdown continues to a very hot dry early summer

In reply to Marek:

Prompted by lockdown and a coincidental change in ownership, I’ll be aiming for Sharpcliffe Rocks during lockdown.  Walkable in 20’ from the house but currently enjoying a light covering of snow.  One starred route might be soloable, assuming it ever dries out...

In reply to ianstevens:

Ah sorry was meant to be in reply to OP.

 Jimbo C 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

This is too easy. I give you Stannington Ruffs. A short stroll away for me. I've only climbed half of a couple of routes as I couldn't risk the top outs of shelving, oozing, sandy muddy mush. Redeeming feature is the little water spout, which, shhh, is rumoured to form ice in the harshest Winters.

No stars at all.

So, 12 points by my reckoning. 

In reply to Marek:

Excellent thread. I'd like to stake a claim with Ladram Bay Stacks (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ladram_bay_stacks-40) within easy biking distance, though perhaps not strictly local. Either way, I'll stay at home and away from anything that requires warthogs even in summer. 

 Marek 07 Jan 2021
In reply to Rowan Morgan:

> Easy answer here:  Pardshaw Crag absolute rubbish... and I'm developing/moderating it...!

> 5 points for a 15 min cycle, climbed everything there (not a lot!) plus 6. Another 2 for a charming panorama of the North West fells. 

So, 13 points. This seems to be a proper contender at the moment. We'll see if it can hold off the famous Stannington Ruffs...

 Marek 07 Jan 2021
In reply to Mark S Davies:

> Nah it has to be only 'Crag must have appeared in at least one published guide book'. Anyone can put any crap up on UKC and call it a crag.

Perhaps, but I haven't seen this loophole abused yet. Another few weeks of lockdown perhaps?

 Marek 07 Jan 2021
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

> I've since moved and  Bridestones (West Yorkshire) is my nearest lump of recorded rock now (well, aside  Jack Bridge Boulders) but previously a cycled to (5) Chatterton Lane Quarry and climbed (1)  The Arête (VS 4b). Only route listed here, and I don't have the old Kinder guide so just two stars (-2). Redeeming feature? Completely isolated once in, so I got away with my naughtiness, until now. Total of 6.

> Lots of small unrecorded quarries local to here now but they're all wetter than an otters pocket so I'm hoping lockdown continues to a very hot dry early summer

Reasonable start and it looks like you have some options for a late charge. We'll see.

 Marek 07 Jan 2021
In reply to Jimbo C:

> This is too easy. I give you Stannington Ruffs. A short stroll away for me. I've only climbed half of a couple of routes as I couldn't risk the top outs of shelving, oozing, sandy muddy mush. Redeeming feature is the little water spout, which, shhh, is rumoured to form ice in the harshest Winters.

> No stars at all.

> So, 12 points by my reckoning. 

So obvious (OK, I haven't personally been there, but its reputation preceded it). However it's currently lagging behind another contender, so work to be done.

 Marek 07 Jan 2021
In reply to OneBeardedWalker:

> Excellent thread. I'd like to stake a claim with Ladram Bay Stacks (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ladram_bay_stacks-40) within easy biking distance, though perhaps not strictly local. Either way, I'll stay at home and away from anything that requires warthogs even in summer. 

Those look properly 'challenging'. Let us know when you ticked any of them during lockdown.

 Dave Cundy 07 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Ha ha, I think you'll know soon enough.  With a following wind, an ascent at the moment might hit the front pages of the Daily Mail.  Along with a picture of a helicopter and the local bobby.

Be a crackin challenge though.  I've cast an eye over it once or twice (from an armchair!).

 Myfyr Tomos 07 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Carreg Gain

15 minute walk. Midge central, (thankful it's January!).

Post edited at 23:24
In reply to Dave Cundy:

Ha that's a brilliant response. You're not wrong either. Thankfully I've stayed inside... 

 Graeme Hammond 10 Jan 2021
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> Prompted by lockdown and a coincidental change in ownership, I’ll be aiming for Sharpcliffe Rocks during lockdown.  Walkable in 20’ from the house but currently enjoying a light covering of snow.  One starred route might be soloable, assuming it ever dries out...

Does this mean there is a change in the access situation?

 Andy Gamisou 11 Jan 2021
In reply to ianstevens:

> Jesmond Dene - "The quarry is in a state of disrepair due to local youths smashing bottles and starting fires"

No needles?  Sounds like it's improved since I lived there!

Let's be fair though, Jesmond Dene itself is pretty impressive (and adjoining Heaton Park) for something in the middle of a city.  Certainly one of the things I miss.

 arose 11 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Ben Nevis, Walked (+10), One route (+1) (turf war),  stars (-658) redeeming feature (+2) (it wasnt raining)

I think that brings me to -645

 tlouth7 11 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

It has got to be The Crack Den - Murrayfield Bridge, I haven't completed any of the climbs (not quite up to 20m of roof jamming). Just noticed it gets a huge number of stars, not sure whose idea that was. Redeeming feature is that it stays dry, though the ground floods.

 Iain Thow 11 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Mam Tor, +10 for walking distance, 1 route, 7 stars, + 2 because it's more attractive now that it's winter. Total 6. There is a closer crag but it has no routes on it for what look like good reasons (but if I get really desperate.....)

 C Witter 11 Jan 2021
In reply to tlouth7:

To be fair... if I could actually climb horizontal roof cracks, I'd think every route at that place was worth four stars! Looks like a great place to get strong.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

> Does this mean there is a change in the access situation?

No.  But a lot of the problem was the non-negotiable hostility of the previous occupants.  I'll make some discreet enquiries, as a neighbour (more or less).  

 Marek 11 Jan 2021
In reply to arose:

> Ben Nevis, Walked (+10), One route (+1) (turf war),  stars (-658) redeeming feature (+2) (it wasnt raining)

> I think that brings me to -645

Well, that's certainly a record. But not the one I was looking for. And not one to elicit much sympathy (unless you end up isolating while the sun shines).

 Marek 11 Jan 2021
In reply to tlouth7:

> It has got to be The Crack Den - Murrayfield Bridge, I haven't completed any of the climbs (not quite up to 20m of roof jamming). Just noticed it gets a huge number of stars, not sure whose idea that was. Redeeming feature is that it stays dry, though the ground floods.

Hmm, one might be 3 star training, but after that aren't they a bit 'samey'?

 Marek 11 Jan 2021
In reply to Iain Thow:

So, same score as my Teggs Nose Quarry. I know which I prefer! But sadly not really 'local' for me.

 JohnBson 11 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Anyone at Penistone Quarry. Can collapse when someone stands at top due to weakly bonded top 1/3rd. Enjoy
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/thurlstone_quarry_high_bank_lane-10095

 Iain Thow 11 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

I thoroughly enjoyed my one and only trip to Tegg's Nose Quarry. Did 10 routes, 3 or 4 of them really nice, plus a half height traverse. Just noticed that the latter doesn't seem to have been recorded anywhere, so have added and named it. Surely someone must have done it before though.

 Marek 11 Jan 2021
In reply to JohnBson:

> Anyone at Penistone Quarry. Can collapse when someone stands at top due to weakly bonded top 1/3rd. Enjoyhttps://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/thurlstone_quarry_high_bank_lane-10095

Seems to get a decent number of stars though. I guess the bottom 2/3 must be really good!

 Marek 11 Jan 2021
In reply to Iain Thow:

> ... Just noticed that the latter doesn't seem to have been recorded anywhere, so have added and named it....

Ah well, some good has come from all this then.

 Iain Thow 11 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Assuming it's a decent route, that is. (it's ok, actually, although I wouldn't give it a star)

 profitofdoom 11 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

Sorry for the (non) thread hijack, but I think I know the best lockdown crag - AVON GORGE - especially if you live in Clifton. A short walk, great stuff

 SiobhanStraver 11 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

What do I get for the alleyway wall near my house? Walked there, spent a long time brushing spiders out of the bricks then ran across the road in my climbing shoes when I thought the person at the other end of the alley might tell me off.

 Marek 11 Jan 2021
In reply to SiobhanStraver:

> What do I get for the alleyway wall near my house? Walked there, spent a long time brushing spiders out of the bricks then ran across the road in my climbing shoes when I thought the person at the other end of the alley might tell me off.

Is it in a published guidebook? Not a lot otherwise.

 tlouth7 12 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

You'd think so, but there is a huge variation in the width of the cracks so there is everything from single finger locks to baggy fist jamming. Another bonus is that because most of us are terrible at jamming the improvement curve is very steep which is satisfying.

Perhaps the routes are worth stars, though I note that there are no votes for stars on any of them on UKC. The "crag" itself probably is not.

 Marek 12 Jan 2021
In reply to tlouth7:

> You'd think so, but there is a huge variation in the width of the cracks so there is everything from single finger locks to baggy fist jamming. Another bonus is that because most of us are terrible at jamming the improvement curve is very steep which is satisfying.

> Perhaps the routes are worth stars, though I note that there are no votes for stars on any of them on UKC. The "crag" itself probably is not.

Understood. Perhaps it should be redefined as a 'training facility' (aka gym, wall) rather than a 'crag'?

Tangentially, presumably this isn't the only such structure in the country. I guess utility bridge construction is pretty standardised. So where are the others?

 Paul16 13 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

I currently looking at Beeston quarry from my 'office' (spare bedroom) and I'm still not tempted. Despite the chance of glory and fame.

 tlouth7 13 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

> Understood. Perhaps it should be redefined as a 'training facility' (aka gym, wall) rather than a 'crag'?

> Tangentially, presumably this isn't the only such structure in the country. I guess utility bridge construction is pretty standardised. So where are the others?

I don't think many training facilities appear on the UKC logbooks. Nor do people put up first ascents at them. On the other hand Edinburgh has a fair number of urban climbing "crags".

The next bridge along the same stretch of water might have some offwidths in it, I haven't tried them though. There is another bridge in Edinburgh with a roof crack. In fact the successful first ascent of that was what led to the discovery of The Crack Den - Murrayfield Bridge.

 Marek 13 Jan 2021
In reply to tlouth7:

> The next bridge along the same stretch of water might have some offwidths in it...

To be honest I was hoping to trigger some more UK-wide replies along the lines of "Ooh, I've walked over a bride like that this morning. Must investigate the underside...". The only bridges round here seem to be either over (or under) canals (slimey stone) or dual-carriageways.

 Marek 13 Jan 2021
In reply to Paul16:

> I currently looking at Beeston quarry from my 'office' (spare bedroom) and I'm still not tempted. Despite the chance of glory and fame.

Not even in this weather?

In reply to Marek:

I'm not going to win this

 Marek 13 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

> To be honest I was hoping to trigger some more UK-wide replies along the lines of "Ooh, I've walked over a bride like that this morning. Must investigate the underside...". The only bridges round here seem to be either over (or under) canals (slimey stone) or dual-carriageways.

For the avoidance of doubt: that should have been 'bridge'.

 JohnBson 16 Jan 2021
In reply to Marek:

> Seems to get a decent number of stars though. I guess the bottom 2/3 must be really good!

Kind of stars that they hand out for participation....

In reply to Jimbo C:

This certainly doesn't count. if you are a short walk from Stannington Ruffs you are like half hours walk from Rivelin  

Sympathy = zero

Post edited at 18:43
 Jimbo C 19:42 Tue
In reply to ashtond6:

Yes, I can easily get to Rivelin, but my score would be around -100. Beautiful crag for early Spring. 


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