UKC

Thinking of doing a trip to Southern Portugal over Easter, taking the ferry to Northern Spain and driving down via Madrid so will have wheels. I'd also like to do a bit of surfing there but spend at least a week sport climbing. 

Before I invest in a climbing guide, what are your thoughts on the sport climbing at Sagres and Punta da Rocha? How's the climbing? Is it worth the trip? The Algarve seems the better option for that time of year, weather-wise (vs central Portugal).

Also, any tips for accommodation close to a crag? 

Rocha da Pena isn't much of a crag - pleasant enough though, but hardly a destination crag.  Sagres is a bit like Pembroke with bolts.  Some crags are outstanding (the Mirror, for example), but you'll need a long abseil rope and a sense of adventure.  If you were to fall in, the next stop is Brasil - an ab rope in the water gets dragged straight out to sea.  And big waves, very big waves, at some of the crags - others, far more sheltered

It is also the most topographically confusing crag I've been too, with bits everywhere.  Much of it was developed by the late Andy Reid of Mile End Wall, the Castle and Mile End again - originally with a trad ethic but subsequently with bolts, in line with local tastes.  I've not seen the new guide myself.  The local hub is the Dromedario cafe in Sagres.  Accommodation - there are surfers too, so there must be something around.  There's also Ingrina if you want to try your hand as DWS.

It's different, but I'm not sure that it's a destination crag.  On the other hand, if it's a two-sport trip, you'll have a great time.  Take slings and an ab rope, plus some trad gear if you want to explore the more adventurous routes.  Some crags have nice platforms at the bottom, others do not.  Rocha da Pena is a standard hillside - wear long trousers for the walk-in

We had 10 days near Sintra and would definitely have a return trip. Good bouldering ( new guide out) Sport, Trad and Surfing. lovely area and quiet 

Defo not somewhere I’d go on a climbing trip. Sagres is wild if the seas rough which it seems to be most of the time. There’s a lovely looking dws cave which unfortunately you’d have to be a maniac to go anywhere near when I saw it. And punta de rocha is only fun for a day really. 

It’s all fun if you’re already there and need something to do though. 

The whole of Portugal offers a tremendous climbing as well as cultural destination - we've had a couple of months there exploring nearly every crag in the selected climbs guide, and a few that aren't. https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/portugal/ I struggle to understand why it isn't more on the radar of Brit climbers (or indeed any other nationality - you're almost guaranteed to have the place to yourselves and if you do bump into some local climbers they're sure to be welcoming).

As mentioned above, Roca de Peña is an okay rather than awesome crag - it'd rank 3* on the 6* Spain index (but still better than any mid grade sports crag we have in UK!) 

The area around Sagres is magnificent - like a whole new Pembroke waiting to be explored (though much less developed or travelled!) You could fill a week there with only sports gear (but still pack your sense of adventure!) but you'd have more options with a trad rack. The Mirror https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2020/01/29/the-mirror-cabo-san-vicente-sag... is one of the most stunning seacliffs anywhere. 

As mentioned above, the approaches and access descriptions are complex and a little confusing. The otherwise excellent guide is a little lacking in this respect, so check out the individual blog posts in the first link above where I've tried to give more detail and also GPS coordinates for ab points etc (usual provisos apply - ab in using your own judgement!) A note on fixed gear and seacliffs - on the plus side, the Portuguese have invested massively in Titanium bolts to overcome the stress corrosion issues with seacliff bolts. On the downside, any other fixed gear (especially anything mentioned on the trad routes) should be taken with a big pinch of salt! 

 If it's standard Chulilla-style euro-cragging you are after, then there are better places, but for a memorable adventure with stunning vistas, great food, and the soundtrack of crashing waves, then I'd highly recommend Portugal! 

Enjoy! Cheers, Dom