UKC

Hi all,

Where would you recommend taking a group that meets the following points?

• March/April for around 10 days.
• Mostly sport but open to some trad and multi pitch.
• Around 15 people. From novice (but competent) climbers to a few experienced climbers at mid-7s level.
• Need to encourage the novice climbers - so avoiding polished areas. Nervous about popular places like Arco, Triglav and Paklenica.
• Mostly accessible to make for easy group management in a new area, but with some scope for adventure (through either multi pitch or more exciting routes). Kalymnos too popular (not adventurous enough).
• Avoiding Spain, as several of the same group are going to Costa Blanca soon already.

Would you recommend Sicily or Le Marches?

Many thanks in advance!

Dan

Firstly, there's a lot more to Spain than Costa Blanca so perhaps not dismiss all of it. Plenty of areas in Catalunya could fit the bill very well.

Secondly, you could do a lot worse than here in Ariège, as the many south facing crags are usually lovely that time of the year.

Thanks. Yes, in fairness we should be open-minded to other areas of Spain. Ariege looks good thanks. Didn't know there was a mix of limestone and granite - variety would be great for novices.

There's also some gneiss too so you can climb on three rock types in the Ariege. Great walking too if anyone fancies a day doing something different- although March/April might mean a bit of working out where the snow is. 

Sardinia maybe?

Sicily san Vito is good for a mixed group.

In Croatia I'd recomend the area south of split - Brela, Omis, and Biokovo. Loads of unpolished, easy to stiff limestone, and quite a few bolted multipitches thrown in.

alicante bruh. there's a good guidebook, sport climbing for all levels and the espolon centrale in the puig campana if you want a long trad climb at about HS 4b

Leonidio in Greece? 

Been to Mallorca lots of times winter/spring and it's always been very enjoyable. There are lots of accommodation options and car hire is easy. The mountains and villages are very pleasant just in themselves and there are lots of other things to do as well as climb. A mixed ability group could probably have a good day or more just at Sa Gubia.

Lleida area in Spain. Also possibly Asturias but it might be a bit wet or chilly then. 
 

The area around Buis les Barronnies in Provence has lots of crags that fit your needs and some longer routes too. 
 

Finale on Italy is great tho I’m not sure how good it is for lower grade climbers as some grades are sandbagged. Maybe the slightly more modern Oltre Finale would be better. 

Dan specifically mentioned that he was looking for venues other than Costa Blanca (which would have otherwise fitted the request if it wasn't specifically excluded).

With a large mixed ability group there are two main problems, of which you are doubtless aware. First, plenty of decent routes in the range 3 to 5 and second, accommodation. Just to second two areas already suggested - Ariege and Buis les Baronnies. 
Ariege - this crag alone would offer best part of a week’s climbing  Calamès for all abilities. It even boasts a clutch of good multi-pitch routes. I’ve climbed there in March with a sprinkling of snow. There is accommodation, owned by an English climber for quite a big group in the village below the crag.

Buis - also lots of easier routes, some excellent ones. This crag is brilliant  Baume Rousse. My club had a meet in the area in March a few years back and found a really nice gites complex on the outskirts of Malaucene at the foot of Mont Ventoux. I could find details if you’re interested (no pecuniary interest on my part!).

Thanks everyone, some really helpful replies there. Ariege, Buis and Sardinia are the ones that really stand out. Will need to make a decision soon!

Cheers

Dan

In case helpful, went to Cala Gonone (Sardinia) at Easter last year. Doing lower grade routes and didn't struggle with polish other than one day. Temp good for climbing. Absolutely beautiful views overlooking the sea. Nice climbing. However just nb a) there weren't that many restaurants or supermarkets that were open at that time of year - and the climbing shop wasn't. Was manageable once we went around and found what was open, but Kalymnos this year was so much easier, and b) the sea was ruddy freezing. We had a car to get around. No idea how well it would work with 15 of you. 

Kalymnos this year with a varied group of 5 climbing 4s, 5s, 6s was perfect, and we walked everywhere bar one day, but fair enough if you don't fancy it. 

John,

Is Ariege not too cold in Mar/Apr? More importantly, what are the odds of rain ruining the trip?

Saw your book in Banana fingers today, getting inspired!

Dan

Obviously no guarantees are ever possible, but the ski season up the road finishes in mid March as there's too much sun for the snow to hang around, and that's 1000m higher altitude. Unless it's a freak season there'll be nothing close to snow temps in the valleys by the end of March, and around that time is when people start looking for shady crags rather than sunny ones.
Rain is always possible but if it does rain it tends to be more often showery than set in, and seepage isn't a major problem except at a small number of crags.

Oh, and while the printed book is still very useful, (very little is no longer relevant), a great many new crags have been developed since, many of which are on the RockFax app.

Thanks

Malta, there's everything you're looking for and more. There are some amazing crags all over the 3 islands and the north of Gozo is well worth a visit.

Lots of taxis at very reasonable prices so no need to hire a car. Food is amazing.