UKC

Hi all, any tips for Capetown/Table mountain?
Hopefully climbing there in February and haven't a clue about SA rock etiquette etc........
Routes? starting on Vs then moving up to E1? depending on how we find their route setting.

cheers

In reply to trekclimb:

We were there in October and did a few routes - Jacob's Ladder was the standout classic, probably one of the best VSs anywhere. The rock is steep and juggy, and the gear can be quite widely spaced. We found it a tricky place to climb hard because it was difficult to tell where the next piece of gear would be.

It's a pretty confusing mountain - we got this guidebook: http://www.wildcard.co.za/blog.htm?action=view-post&id=4685 but it was still useful to walk up to the higher crags first to work out how it all fits together.

Have fun, it's an awesome place!

In reply to trekclimb:

Use the cable car (especially if it's hot)
Remember the south face's are in the shade (especially if it's hot!)

Can't remember many route names, but Jacob's ladder is a lovely big VS romp. And something on the other side, Africa Bust-Up I think it's called, is an incredible route, about E1, with an enormous horizontal roof. Think The Sloth but properly horizontal and with hundreds of metres of space below you.

In reply to simon kimber:


Don't - walk up

Africa Face is a good start (easy, and you end up at the top cable station having been photographed by thousands).

Jacob's Ladder, Roulette, Atlantic Crag - a few to keep you going.

Some ideas here -

http://www.summitpost.org/table-mountain/150750
http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/south-africa/table-mountain

In reply to trekclimb:

And just remember, this is the country where car jackings, robberies, muggins and shootings take place every single day of the week. If you are white be careful!

In reply to trekclimb:

Hi, I second the route suggestions so far for TM. Jacobs ladder is a gem of a route, as is Atlantic Crag which is SA 18 or UK HVS, (felt like steady E1 to me) but be warned Table Mountain has a very big mountain feel for an urban crag and once you step out the cable car and scramble or ab in, it feels like you are in a different world which has caught out a few confident VS or HVS leaders who are more used to single pitch routes and road side cragging.

Etiquette wise, TM is strictly trad, on bullet hard metamorphosised sand stone, and tends to eat cams so a full rack is needed, I would strongly advise using a guide for your first outing, as it hard place to get your head round the first few times. I am originally from Cape Town, moved to the UK , discovered climbing and went back to discover the paradise that was on my doorstep all those years, and was lucky enough to find a great guide that made my introduction to the mountain an amazing experience.

PM me if you want any details or guidebook advice.
Paul

In reply to simon kimber:


Hello Simon

I have a small confession, in the matter of the cable car - essentially, as you know, a windowed cylindrical device suspended from a single vertical axis, that performs two complete 360 degree rotations in transit thus affording the paying occupants an unforgettable panoramic experience of the surrounding landscape.

I was on my way up, plus rucsac, and somewhere a rope was visible. I was approached through the throng by a lady. [Although I can possibly represent in print various accents - French, German, American, etc - I'm not too sure about South African; you may have to bear with me.]
"Ah think yor all med" is approximately what she said - "henging on rerps lahk thet!" I'm ashamed to say that I kicked into professional mode - professional, that is, in the context of years of abseil inspections of residential high-rise blocks with the attendant commentaries, usually going back up in the lift, from aforesaid residents who clearly believed we were off our collective rockers.
"You think it's just me; have you seen the state of the cables on this thing?" I offered.
She visibly crumpled.
"Oh mah Goud - dern't sey thet" she whimpered, moving as far away from the windows as possible; ie tight against the central column where she remained, as if transfixed, for the remainder of the ascent.
I felt quite guilty; it was really only an off-the-cuff remark. She was probably a very pleasant woman, and I never meant to ruin her trip!

In reply to trekclimb:

Thanks all, good info

In reply to trekclimb:
There's a new guide book in the last few years so your life will be easy - it's called Cape Peninsula Select or something like that and will be available from most climbing stores in the city. I recommend City Rock, which will be able to supply you with anything you've forgotten, including this guide book, and has decent indoor facilities should you be rained out. (In Cape Town, people see rainy days as welcome breaks from the good weather and do not climb outdoors when it's wet. After all, you can be certain that it will be clear tomorrow.)

See also: http://www.climbing.co.za/ and get in touch with the MCSA if you want advice, help, rescue information or a guide or partner: http://mcsacapetown.co.za/

While in Town, don't forget a trip to Lion's Head and Muizenburg Crag -- they are both very easy to get to and they both feature many great trad. routes. The styles change a bit between venues so it's good to climb at different ones. These are the big three City crags.

The routes in South Africa are normally multi-pitch adventurous outings. The scale is always impressive and exposure is plentiful. The rock is neigh unbreakable. It tends to form horizontal rails and vertical seams, with surprisingly tough flakes on faces. In general, it doesn't get glassy from traffic but it can become a bit slimy depending on the wind direction because Table Mountain is a coastal crag. Take many cams and double up on red and gold (Camalot colouring) if at all possible -- experienced Cape Town trad. climbers never feel lead-out because they know there's a rail coming up and it will surely take a red-cam. Walk-outs are typically easy to find, on Table Mountain and Lion's Head, although the Muizenburg one could be considered a moderate down-climb for the uninitiated. Remember that this is multi-pitch climbing: you might be three pitches off the deck with three pitches to go when the sun sets -- take a head-torch if you leave late.

Do walk up! India Venster (the B-grade scramble that takes you to the climbs, from the lower cable station) is an absolute joy. The only possible excuses for taking the cable car up to the climbs on Fountain Ledge include (A) the fact that you're wearing a miniskirt and high-heels or (B) you're a nob (C) you are lazy or (D) you're an octogenarian or disabled or (E) you simply don't have time for the trek. (The last one is debatable - some of the fitter tradites in Cape Town claim that they'll be topping out of their first four-pitch route before you've gained the front of the Cable Car Queue.)

EDIT: Rock etiquette in South Africa is more or less the same as here. Crags have a lower average population, though.

In reply to Xharlie:

That was always my experience - always quicker to walk up than to wait for the cable car and it's even busier now than it was then. Anyway, if it's your first trip, you'll still need to find your way back down to Fountain Ledge from the top station. Start up before it gets too warm (general advice for climbing in south Africa).

Does anyone know whether you can still climb down the pipe from the top station to Fountain Ledge? Quick but maybe not recommended for a first visit!

In reply to trekclimb:

Never climbed on the mountain but I've cycled round it three times on the Argus. All I would add is: read up about baboons.

Carry on.

In reply to trekclimb:

I echo all that's been said.

Africa Crag and Fountain's Ledge have great climbs on them.

Watch out for the sun it's burning! So choose routes that are in the shade, and in this respect don't forget you are in the Southern hemisphere so the sun is in the north! Take plenty of water.

The sandstone here is "Gods own rock"! almost unbreakable and great friction.

Mind blowing exposure and fantastic views.

Unless you are super fit I'd suggest taking the cable car. The Venster Buttress scramble is great fun and worth doing another day in it's own right - combine it with Arrow Face Traverse and descend via Yellowstone Gully/ Union Ravine and you will have a great day's scrambling at Grade 4D which at one point goes right into the mountain! Although not hard for a rock climber and you should be able to do your own route finding from the guide book, this circuit still needs some care with the route finding and is exposed in places. Be aware that there have been fatalities on it.

Other good climbing areas include Lions Head, and/or if you are prepared to drive out past Paarl go to Du Toits Kloof for a taste of South African adventure climbing with "interesting" walks in and out (no defind paths) but the reward is mind blowing multi pitch mountain routes including The classic Exposure in F Major or the easier Fledermaus.

I echo the advice to climb with a guide. You won't waste time trying to work out what's in condition and in the shade.

I have used a guide several times and it's great as they will let you lead if you want to, and can provide ropes, gear etc to save your permitted weght on the flight out to SA.

Email me if you want a recommendation.

In reply to Dave Perry:


This does not answer the OP and is wholly unhelpful.

Sensible precautions are necessary wherever you travel in the world. Yes there are parts of South Africa it would be unwise to visit, even parts of Cape Town, but Table Mountain is not one of them.

Also, It's also not a simple race issue unlike your sweeping generalisations.

In reply to iccle_bully:

have to agree, Black Crag has had more than it's fair share of robberies these last few years.

In reply to Dave Garnett:


I agree; and it's quite complicated (i.e. involves walking in the 'wrong' direction for a while). Or do people just ab down now?

In reply to Kipper:

That's why I asked about the pipe. That was the proper way back down!

In reply to trekclimb:

I have lived in Cape Town for the last 14 years. I climb trad once or twice a week on Table Mountain or the other crags in the Cape Town area.

The guide book you should get is “Cape Peninsula Select”. The descriptions and grades mostly OK.

Top Tips.

Use the cable car if going up the mountain. At this time of year you will only queue first thing in the morning when all the tourist buses arrive.

If you are going to climb at the top of Table Mountain on more than 3 days buy a “Cable Card” for the Cable Way. This costs R535 for a year and allows you one trip up and down every day the Cable car is running. A normal return ticket cost R225 and a single trip up or down costs R110. You get the “Cable Card” from the shop at the lower cable car station, not the ticket office. You will need your passport and it takes about 10/15 minutes to issue.

The “pipe” descent mentioned above is no longer there. There is an abseil descent on Fountain ledge with proper “P” bolts. 25 metre’s to the “Staircase” ledge then 40 metre’s.

Use double ropes, 50’s are fine. Take some 60cm slings to stop rope drag.

Learn what a “Blister Bush” looks like and don’t get too personal with one. The blister’s take a long time to heal.

Take a lightweight wind top. Cape Town is very windy you will use it.

If the South Easter is blowing strong (i.e. the cable car is closed) the best place to climb is the “Clifton Crest” sector on Lion’s Head sandstone. In the shade and out of the wind. Routes to do Juggernaut, Aquanaut, Clifton Crest. Car parking can be difficult on a Sunday use the car park at Kloof Neck it only adds 10/15 minutes to the walk in.

Bombay Duck is a must do route on the Lower Buttresses. India Somersault and Teddy Bear’s Picnic are also good.

In reply to Removed User:

All good advice. I've refrained from offering long-outdated detailed advice because even Cape Town must have moved on since I climbed there regularly!

Table Mountain trad is world class but I would also make the effort to get onto the Lion's Head slabs (De Bruin Damage, Millions etc) and out to Paarl for Little Dutch Boy, at least.

In reply to Dave Garnett:


You're probably right - mine is from about 35 years ago Even the cable car was different, but I'd still walk up.