/ Best months for alpine rock routes?

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im off 14 Jan 2020

Planning on going to mont blanc....do some classic rock routes.

Choice I have is late may or early sept. Cant get away between.

Which is the better bet. Was thinking bergshrunds may be more of a problem by sept?

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Misha 14 Jan 2020
In reply to im off:

Depends. Could you give an example of routes you’re looking at?

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im off 14 Jan 2020
In reply to Misha:

Hi misha,

Grand capucin, pointe adolphe rey, gervasuti pillar.....

Chamonix aguilles....cordier pillar.....

I remember last year people having probs with grand capucin bergshrund.

Might have been you?😀

I guess bit more daylight in end of may compared to sept....

Post edited at 16:00
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shaun walby 14 Jan 2020
In reply to im off:

Sept...day light hours about same, anything that is going to fall probably will have done after mid summer heat.

Aug crowds gone leaving decent info on routes/rock fall/problems from the summer season.

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Fergal 14 Jan 2020
In reply to im off:

Best choice would be sept imho, higher longer routes will still have to much snow on ledges in may, good thing about sept you usually  get a few weeks of stable weather and it is quiet, well it certainly used to be, but like anything, if it cools down and snows early with the onset of autumn it could be end of season.

Post edited at 16:27
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Misha 14 Jan 2020
In reply to im off:

For those routes the schrunds could certainly be an issue by the end of the summer and rock fall could still be an issue in September. You’d need to ask at the OHM but some routes would probably still be doable. You can always ab into the Midi South Face as well.

End of May could be problematic for routes off the Midi as the lift could be closed, depending on your exact dates. Still a fair amount of snow around but the south facing stuff should clear quickly as the sun will be pretty strong. May be consider snow shoes for approaches if there are no tracks!

Also you could consider the rock routes on the Cham side of the Peigne and the Blatiere, which don’t have glacial approaches. There’s a new guide book out for them.

There’s plenty of non glacial granite in Switzerland as well, for example the Salbit. 

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im off 14 Jan 2020
In reply to Misha:

Thanks everyone.

Good advice. Much appreciated.

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Rob Parsons 14 Jan 2020
In reply to Misha:

> Also you could consider the rock routes on the Cham side of the Peigne and the Blatiere, which don’t have glacial approaches. There’s a new guide book out for them.

Which guidebook?

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Misha 14 Jan 2020
Rob Parsons 15 Jan 2020
In reply to Misha:

Ok - thanks for the info.

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