UKC

Hi all,

Anyone knows what's the deal with the ban imposed till 1st of August? The Gouter refuge webpage seems to state that bivying outside the route still isn't allowed. I wouldn't mind booking the hut if it comes to that, but it seems that it is fully booked.  

Will a gendarme stop me if I attempt the summit without a booking? 

Cheers

From what I understand... if you approach the grand couloir early enough, looking fit, moving well, acclimatised and explain you intend to be summiting by dawn and in Cham by lunchtime... you'll be let though. 

Not sure what they've done about Gouter Refuge bans... but generally speaking best to avoid at any point in my view.

I've climbed Mont Blanc at the end of July, when the first restriction was in place. I've camped at Tete Rousse - plenty of others were doing the same - and I didn't have any issues. Prior to that I paid a visit to The High Mountain Office in Chamonix to enquire about the new regulations put in place and they said pretty much what A Longleat Boulderer wrote. If you are in Chamonix I woud advise you to go there and ask, they can tell you exactly what's what. https://www.chamonix.com/office-de-haute-montagne,4-492959,en.html

Now, I have a friend who works as a mountain guide and he told me that the Gouter route is a no go these days because of the rockfall on the Grand Couloir. See this: https://www.chamonet.com/news/mont-blanc-s-gouter-route-at-risk-of-closure-... Again, if you are in Chamonix you can ask at The High Mountain Office about the conditions on the route.

Bivvying outside the Gouter is *never* permitted. You can bivvy or camp outside the Tete Rousse though, there’s a designated area. 

As noted above, the Gouter Route is not advisable at the moment due to high rockfall risk. Check with the guides office as the situation may improve but the temperature needs to drop for that. 

Cab you not bivvy on the walkways of the old hut?

I am not sure how far the ‘no bivvying’ rule extends but suspect it covers the old hut.