UKC

Glacier du Tour conditions - bare ice on initial slopes beyond Albert Premier, a bit tricky for novices first thing in the morning. Numerous crevasses beyond this. Col Superior du Tour in a mess - dirty ice slopes up high, with evidence of plenty of rockfall over the track below I decided to avoid. A team was questing over the Col du Tour, but this didn't look like a good idea at all. Some huge crevasses heading up towards Petite Fourche, inc one section traversing a ridge in the middle of a building-sized yawner. Chardonnet way out of condition (obviously). Overall, everything up there in a bit of a sorry state. Sections of dry glacier at over 3300m - there is a possibility that the entire Tour glacier could be in a dry state by the end of the summer if we carry on like this. Pic of Col Sup on alpinerob face book page

In reply to ROB W:

weather report looks like its gonna cool down a good bit and maybe up to 1m of snow Tuesday - Friday. Fingers crossed!

In reply to ROB W:

I went for an attempt on the Forbes Arete 3 weeks ago and took the guidebook approach due south from below Pte. 3238. It took us through a crevassed maze of hell and we both punched through weak snow bridges, it wasn't a nice place to be. After the initial snow slopes up to La Bosse on the Chardonnet we decided to bail with an enormous crevasse on the hanging glacier that had a single bridge across and no obvious way round.

On all the descriptions, pictures and other peoples reports there is no mention of an enormous crevasse up there so I think it could be quite new with the poor winter and hot summer.

In reply to ROB W:

Wow, doesn't look pretty! I was hoping for a wander around there in a few weeks time, that has made me reconsider!