UKC

My climbing partner & I climb to a D grade (unguided) in the Alps & are looking to climb in the Cordillera Huayhuash in the 2019 season, after another summer trip to the Alps this year & a spring trip next year.

Does anyone know of any routes in the Cordillera Huayhuash that two climbers climbing to this grade would be able to achieve?

I was considering doing Rasac last year but in the end went with something easier. 6000M, graded D.

Thanks. What did you go for?

Thanks. What climb did you go for in the end?

We were at the base of Rasac (the three pillars actually) and these formed huge seracs last year. Would not recommend. South face looked awesome but is considerably harder!

Copa Nevado in the c. blanca - I was solo so it was a little more achievable.

Somthing on one of the smaller peaks like quesillo or huaraca? Ive been up both from the east side. Canecero also looked doable depending on the state of the glacier on the approach.

Thanks. I've had a look at Quesillo but can't find much info on the east side.

found this which you might find interesting: http://ari.rdx.net/abc/mountains/south_america_cordillera_huayhuash_mtns.ht...

although i haven't done it i think the right had skyline shown in this article is AD (cornice permitting)

https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2008_files/AJ%202008%207... 

Hells bells that alpine journal article is gripping reading!

to Burton83:

had an unsuccessful attempt on Rasac in 2005, guided by John Biggar. It was called off pretty early on when it was clear the glacier conditions were much worse than expected. I got the impression things are changing pretty rapidly there. And that the major peaks in the huayhuash are all serious undertakings. 

We we did do Diablo mudo; it’s a stunning viewpoint (photos in my gallery) but probably too easy for what you’re looking for. 

It was a pretty gripping few days! (i'm middle spoon in the picture)

If you are interested in visiting this area a report of a trip I was on in 2007 may be of interest - its got a few topos and bits of logistical information 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ffvyi0trz7hh0q0/Peru%202007%20Expedition%20Report... 

Thanks for the info. Really interesting stuff. 

Thanks for this.

I get the impression conditions are changing so we want to get out there before they change too much.