UKC

/ Cordillera Huayhuash 2019

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BURTON83 - on 07 Mar 2018

My climbing partner & I climb to a D grade (unguided) in the Alps & are looking to climb in the Cordillera Huayhuash in the 2019 season, after another summer trip to the Alps this year & a spring trip next year.

Does anyone know of any routes in the Cordillera Huayhuash that two climbers climbing to this grade would be able to achieve?

Smythson on 07 Mar 2018
In reply to BURTON83:

I was considering doing Rasac last year but in the end went with something easier. 6000M, graded D.

BURTON83 - on 07 Mar 2018
In reply to BURTON83:

Thanks. What did you go for?

BURTON83 - on 07 Mar 2018
In reply to Smythson:

Thanks. What climb did you go for in the end?

HosteDenis on 07 Mar 2018
In reply to BURTON83:

We were at the base of Rasac (the three pillars actually) and these formed huge seracs last year. Would not recommend. South face looked awesome but is considerably harder!

Smythson on 08 Mar 2018
In reply to BURTON83:

Copa Nevado in the c. blanca - I was solo so it was a little more achievable.

ebdon on 09 Mar 2018
In reply to BURTON83:

Somthing on one of the smaller peaks like quesillo or huaraca? Ive been up both from the east side. Canecero also looked doable depending on the state of the glacier on the approach.

BURTON83 - on 15 Mar 2018
In reply to ebdon:

Thanks. I've had a look at Quesillo but can't find much info on the east side.

ebdon on 15 Mar 2018
In reply to BURTON83:

found this which you might find interesting: http://ari.rdx.net/abc/mountains/south_america_cordillera_huayhuash_mtns.htm

although i haven't done it i think the right had skyline shown in this article is AD (cornice permitting)

https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2008_files/AJ%202008%2070-76%20Schofield%20Quesillo.pdf 

no_more_scotch_eggs - on 15 Mar 2018
In reply to ebdon:

Hells bells that alpine journal article is gripping reading!

 

to Burton83:

had an unsuccessful attempt on Rasac in 2005, guided by John Biggar. It was called off pretty early on when it was clear the glacier conditions were much worse than expected. I got the impression things are changing pretty rapidly there. And that the major peaks in the huayhuash are all serious undertakings. 

We we did do Diablo mudo; it’s a stunning viewpoint (photos in my gallery) but probably too easy for what you’re looking for. 

 

ebdon on 15 Mar 2018
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

It was a pretty gripping few days! (i'm middle spoon in the picture)

ebdon on 16 Mar 2018
In reply to ebdon:

If you are interested in visiting this area a report of a trip I was on in 2007 may be of interest - its got a few topos and bits of logistical information 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ffvyi0trz7hh0q0/Peru%202007%20Expedition%20Report.pdf?dl=0 

BURTON83 - on 17 Mar 2018
In reply to ebdon:

Thanks for the info. Really interesting stuff. 

BURTON83 - on 17 Mar 2018
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

Thanks for this.

I get the impression conditions are changing so we want to get out there before they change too much. 


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