UKC

Hi All,

I think I know the answer but still looking for advice. My Sister-in-law is currently in Ecuador and looking to do Cotopaxi. She has never done mountaineering before and has very limited knowledge of altitude sickness, acclimatisation, never used crampons or axes etc. She is looking at companies out there that advertise a 2 day itinerary to climb Cotopaxi. Day 1 drive up to 4600m, sleep in the hut at 4800m and then climb to the summit the next day.

I don't understand how companies they can possibly think doing this itinerary is remotely safe and I'd imagine their client summit success rate is shocking.

Luckily she is planning on doing some acclimatisation off her own back...she will do 2 climbs up to 4000m but only sleep at 2800m...which for me is not enough??

Does anyone have experience with companies out there like this and anyone have any advice about what she can do or questions she should be asking of the companies?

Thanks

In reply to drink_more_tea:

Plenty of people get to the summit of Cotopaxi without proper acclimatisation, but plenty more do not!

A couple of 4000m climbs won't prepare her for a 6000m peak, particularly without nights spent at altitude.

If she's got a couple of days to acclimatise on 4000m volcanoes, why not do the standard 2 day programme on Iliniza Norte? This involves a night in the Nuevos Horizones hut at 4800...and a relatively short climb to the summit (5150m) the next day.

She wouldn't be properly acclimatised, but she'd have a fighting chance.

Would she be able to spend an extra night Jose Rivas refuge on Cotopaxi before the climb, rather than turn up the evening before she set off to the summit?

In reply to drink_more_tea:

I'm guessing its stopped exploding? or has it?I Just read this, http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2017/is-cotopaxi-now-safe-to-climb/
Yes you know the answer to this! All you need to do is persuade your sister in law!
No disrespect to your Sister in law intended, but it always amazes me where these clients come from and how many there are, not to mention some company's willing to take their money (or worse) simply because of their ignorance! Now that's of my chest, back to the point!
Don't know Cotopaxi it has to be said, but in general as a reasonably fit individual, who regularly leads people up to 5,600m I normally work on 1 day for every 1000m gained + rest day + summit. So from sea level to 4800m = 5 days, then rest(ish) day, then summit, so 7-8 days. If she's already at 2800m for a while and happy, you could knock 2-3 days off this. The lack of skills and experience is a different matter and it would feel very intimidating to the uninitiated. Having said that with a good guide and small ratios its not to much of an issue skills wise. I'm sure there's many other trekking peaks in Ecuador that may be more suitable for a beginner.

In reply to pass and peak:

I remember a swift retreat just below the summit due to very strange snow conditions caused by it warming from below.

Regards original poster, a 2 day ascent is possible. It is rarely comfortable for the client, they are just dragged up by the guide and will probably get headaches, etc from AMS. They rely on speed to make it safe, soon as the client gives up they turn and get back down, there is no hanging around for CE or PE. So long as the client doesn't give up and has decent speed, they'll make it. It's more of an experience for the tale after than a mountaineering trip.

In reply to drink_more_tea:

Your user name is appropriate, that is EXACTLY what your sister should do.

One night has no effect on long term, EPO mediated acclimatization, but the rapid mode via HCO3- excretion is helped by enormously by giving your kidneys liquid to work with.

Drink, then drink some more, and you will have much reduced headaches when overdoing the height gain.

I agree with jonnie3430 that speed will make it safe enough.

CB