UKC

Hi all

Thanks very much to all those who responded to my previous post on multi-pitch climbing on South Island. I've now got the Rock Deluxe guide and we've done some climbing at Castle Hill and Long Beach, together with a lovely 2-day tramp (Cass-Lagoon Saddles) and some touristy stuff. We're thinking of doing the Grand Traverse as a team of three early next week ( forecast is promising), but the Rock Deluxe guide doesn't have the Remarkables (presumably because they're considered alpine rather than rock) and I've struggled to find information. There's an overview photo and approach description at TheCrag.com (https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/new-zealand/queenstown/remarkables/area...) and maybe it's obvious enough that that's all you need. But if not, any other online information or published guides (happy to buy one if they're on sale in Wanaka or Queenstown) would be really helpful. I've had a look at the logbook comments and earlier forum threads which has added a bit more info.

Any other advice gratefully received - for background, I've been trad climbing and scrambling all my adult life (including some alpine rock) but have done very little proper alpinism and the same goes for both partners.

Cheers

Rick

I haven't done it, but a few options for info might be:

1. Queenstown guide book "Queenstown Rock, Ice & Boulders" - Guillaume Charton. I'm not 100% sure if the Grand Traverse is in there or not but I expect it would be. Looks like it's out of stock in most places online though so perhaps it's out of print.
2. Couple of good sounding outdoor shops in Queenstown who might have someone knowledgeable and happy to help:
   1. Small Planet
   2. Bivouac
3. There may or may not be a DOC ranger contactable via the Queenstown Visitor Centre who has climbing knowledge 
4. The NZ Alpine Club group on Facebook (search "New Zealand Alpine Club") is public and active, so you could join the group and ask
5. Seems like there's a high level route description on FatMap: https://fatmap.com/discover/route/new-zealand/otago/alpine-climbing/grand-t...
6. The mountain guide companies might be comfortable having a chat too, I know there are some based in Wanaka and Queenstown

I'm 99% sure it was in a guidebook that was on sale in Small Planet in Queenstown, because I was looking at it while I was there, but I don't remember the name of the guidebook. There was a late dump of snow and we hadn't brought winter gear, so we had to give up on the traverse.

The guy in the shop was a good source of extra info as well.

Hi Rick, the GT is a fantastic alpine outing that is uncharacteristically accessible for NZ. Are you planning on a summer or winter traverse? In terms of an alpine grade I'd guess it would probably get AD- in winter, and maybe a little easier in summer. I've only done the traverse in winter, and here's a rough description (think this is also the summer line). Approach by traversing the east side on Telecom Tower and aim for the col. Head up the ridge and then fairly early on you'll spot a line of weakness heading off the crest slightly to the left. There should be heaps of crampon scratches, so follow them. Shortly you'll regain the crest and have at least one short wall to climb which we pitched (maybe Severe?), but many people are happy to solo. Continuing along the ridge you get to the first peak of double cone. On the far side you should find some in situ ab tat to get down to the notch, but it is also possible to take an awkward zigzag down (or jump!). Looking up at the next peak, the groove is much easier and more accommodating than it looks. Boost along the wee summit ridge and down the other side, and you should then be able to pick a line up the face if single cone (in winter you basically follow a series of wide gullies around bluffs to the summit). The east ridge of single cone is equally serious scrambling terrain to descend. The standard way down would be to follow the southish trending ridge for a short distance to the top of a chimney. We were able to do a 30m ab down this in winter (one 60m rope), not sure what it would be like in summer. From there, it's not far to the obligatory skinny dip in Lake Alta.

Many thanks for the really helpful beta - we'll be doing it in summer conditions (hopefully!) but your description is really helpful regardless - if I can't find a guide we'll have a go anyway I think, weather permitting

Rick

Thanks very much - that guide wasn't on sale in Wanaka (where I am now) but the lady in the shop said it should be in Queenstown so will try the shops there for the guide (or failing that beta) as you suggest

Rick

Thanks very much - will try to get the guide in Queenstown when we get there

Rick

No worries! I'm sure you could get more detailed descriptions or photos if you search or post on the New Zealand Alpine Club facebook page, or Canterbury Mountaineering Club. I hope you have a great time

Hi Rick,

I've got a copy of Guillaume Charton's Queenstown Rock, Ice and Mixed guide that I purchased back in the day. It's got the Grand Traverse in it, described in detail. If you PM me your email, I'll photograph the pages and send them your way.

We did it in summer conditions (on Christmas Day, actually) and, while having ropes and gear, found fun un-roped scrambling all the way (competent but in no way exceptional climbers that we were). Roping up/moving together/pitching definitely looked possible if desired.

However, after the last peak, you initially descend via a gully that often holds snow. I remember it having abseil bolts and we got the rope out and abbed down it before pottering off down the snow slopes below. 

It's an excellent day out!

Cheers,

Joyce

Hi Rick, 

Wanaka Mountain Guides might be able to help, although they do run the trips themselves I am sure they will offer sound advice. I say that as I have recently done a trip with them.

A great alternative if you have the time is the North Ridge of the Moir in the Darran's. It's a 3hr drive from Queenstown but well worth it. 

Have a fantastic time it's an amazing place. 

Cheers, 

Matt 

Hi Joyce,

Sorry to hijack someone else's post, but I put up a similar request at the start of the year on UKC but had no offers such as yours.

If you are going to scan some guidebook pages for Rick, was wondering if you wouldn't mind sending me a copy as well. We are hoping to do this in March. I can PM you my email if you are ok with this

Thanks.  Andrew

I have the Guillaume guide on the shelf at home - drop me a line. 

In NZ no-one is around on UKC over the midsummer to answer posts

b

Hi Ben,

Thanks for this.  Sent you a PM

YHM

b

We did it a couple weeks ago, super chill and easy to take your own line and decide how hard to go, it weaves around the ridge. Many people run the ridge and skip the harder sections.

Calum muskett has put a great description on FATMAPs which is accurate enough to use. 

Hi Joyce

Thanks very much for the very kind offer of scanning the pages of the Queenstown guide. I've been offline for a few days or I would have replied sooner. As it happens the guy in Small Planet in Queenstown was happy for me to photo the relevant pages of the guide, as they only had a shop copy as it's out of print. Apparently a new edition is due out in September (though I'm aware that guidebook publication schedules are infinitely extendable!)

In reply to all

Thanks for all the beta and advice - in the end we did it on Tuesday, and had a great day out. We weren't the quickest (ahem) but the weather was fine all day so not a problem - just a lovely day. The approach has changed slightly due to construction of a new ski lift - you go up to Lake Alta first and then trend right to the ridge leading up to the Telecom tower ( there's a sign at the car park showing the "keep out" zone). Despite the reputation of New Zealand mountain rock the schist on the Remarkables actually gave really good climbing - if I'm ever in the area again I'd want to try a conventional rock route on one of the cones.

Cheers

Rick